Cigar Spirits: Basil Hayden’s Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey
6 Mar 2013
My colleague recently listed five bourbons Maker’s Mark fans should try, in light of that spirit’s announcement—and subsequent retraction—that it was reducing its proof from 90 to 84. It was a timely article because demand for Maker’s will outpace the supply of fully aged Maker’s, which is why officials wanted to water down the bourbon in the first place.
I like my colleague’s list, but one addition immediately came to mind: Basil Hayden’s. Maker’s is known for a smooth taste that emphasizes sweetness over spice. Likewise, Basil Hayden’s has built a reputation as an approachable bourbon with crispness over heat. So it stands to reason that many Maker’s fans might also like Basil Hayden’s, which is sold at a comparable cost ($35-40 per 750 ml. bottle).
Basil Hayden’s is the lightest bourbon in the Small Batch Bourbon Collection that’s made by Jim Beam. It’s 80-proof, as opposed to Knob Creek (100-proof), Baker’s (107-proof), and Booker’s (121- to 127-proof). And it probably has the most unique bottle of the bunch.
Basil Hayden’s is aged for eight years and has a high concentration of rye. That’s how Basil Hayden Sr.—a Catholic from Maryland who moved to Kentucky in the late 1700s—crafted the bourbon, when “Kentucky was but four years old and George Washington was president,” according to the bottle. “Today, we make Basil Hayden’s using the same skill and care that made it a favorite among America’s frontier settlers.”
Given the spirit’s low proof, I prefer to sip Basil Hayden’s with Whisky Stones which, unlike ice, won’t dilute it further. In the glass it has a light amber color and a clean nose of tea, eucalyptus, mint, and spice.
The flavor is predictably soft with only traces of pepper or heat. Instead, it’s characterized by honey, citrus, and some floral notes. The finish is brief and clean.
I’ve heard Basil Hayden’s classified as a bourbon for non-bourbon drinkers. I don’t think that’s fair. I consider myself a bourbon drinker, and I happen to appreciate it as a fine accompaniment to a mild, Connecticut-wrapped cigar. No, it doesn’t have the depth or complexity as, say, Booker’s. But it’s a nice change of pace and a smooth-tasting option for the open-minded.
-Patrick A
photo credit: Stogie Guys
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Cigar Spirits: Noah’s Mill Bourbon
5 Mar 2013
As bourbons go, Noah’s Mill is a mysterious breed. It’s a product of Kentucky Bourbon Distillers (KBD), which until a year or two ago didn’t distill its own bourbon, instead buying bourbon from other distilleries. So the exact origin of the contents of this $50-60 bottle of Kentucky bourbon are unknown. (If you are wondering what bourbons are made where, this is one of the best lists I’ve seen at sorting out the known links between distilleries and bottles.)
Further, while for many years Noah’s Mill held an age statement of 15 years (meaning the youngest bourbon in the bottle was at least 15 years old), the bourbon recently eliminated its age statement. Multiple reports I’ve read (including this one) say that KBD was having trouble securing adequate amounts of 15-year-old bourbon, so they reformulated the recipe with bourbons ranging from 4 to 20 years of age, with a variety of different mash bills.
The result is the most acclaimed member of KBD’s small batch collection, which also includes Rowan’s Creek, Pure Kentucky XO, and Kentucky Vintage. Bottled at a “near barrel-strength” of 57.15% (or 114.3-proof) there is more unknown than known about this bourbon, which lets you simply evaluate it for how it drinks, as opposed to the decades or centuries of bourbon history that accompany many Kentucky spirits.
Noah’s Mill doesn’t have as much alcohol heat on the nose as you might expect from a nearly 115-proof spirit. Instead, the deep reddish-brown bourbon features lots of wood, leather, and brown spice aromas.
On the palate, once again, the lack of heat despite the relatively high proof surprises. Normally I’m one to water down (at least with a few drops) anything much over 100-proof, but this doesn’t need it, which predicably can lead to sneaky results if you have more than a glass or two.
Wood (to be expected given the 20-year age of some of the blend), maple syrup, baker’s spices, toffee, and raisin are all apparent. The finish is very long with woody spice and a hint of mint.
All in all, an excellent bourbon for those who like the woodiness of extra old bourbon. (Mix Booker’s with Pappy van Winkle and you’d end up with something like Noah’s Mill.) And at $50 a bottle (shop around; there’s a wide range of prices) it’s a good deal on a mysteriously tasty spirit.
Recommended cigar pairings include: Cuban Partagas Serie P No. 2, Surrogates Bone Crusher, 7-20-4 Lancero, and CyB Lonsdale Club.
-Patrick S
photo credit: Stogie Guys
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Cigar Spirits: Five Bourbons Maker’s Mark Fans Should Try
26 Feb 2013
Maker’s Mark stunned many in the bourbon world recently by announcing it was reducing the proof of its bourbon from 90- to 84-proof. The bourbon was staying the same (the same mash bill aged the same number of years), except the ABV was dropping from 45% to 42%.
But when the backlash was more than expected, Maker’s Mark said “never mind” on the reduced proof. While that may have been the right decision, it leaves unresolved the problem that the watering down was meant to address: Demand for Maker’s Mark outpaces the supply of fully aged Maker’s (a problem that will take years to fix.)
So fans of Maker’s Mark may have trouble finding their bourbon. Given Maker’s Mark’s “wheated” recipe, which emphasizes sweetness over spice, here are a few other bourbons to try if you can’t find that iconic red wax bottle, or if you just want to try something new.
Maker’s Mark 46 – Instead of going into to the bottling line, some Maker’s Mark is diverted to a second period of aging with a barrel using seared French oak staves. The result is a more complex, more complete bourbon. It’s $10-15 more per bottle, but well worth it in my opinion.
Old Fitzgerald – Whiskey writer Chuck Cowdery says he’s heard stories that Pappy Van Winkle gave Maker’s Mark creator Bill Samuels Sr. his Old Fitzgerald recipe for what would become Maker’s: “Put it in a fancy bottle and charge an arm and a leg for it.” Today Old Fitzgerald is made at Heaven Hill Distillery. The regular 80-proof gold label is slightly less refined than Maker’s but also half the price ($13).
Larceny – This newcomer, also from Heaven Hill, impressed me when I tried it. Just as sweet as Maker’s but richer in character, it’s more my style. And at $25 a bottle it’s the same price as Maker’s.
Old Weller Antique 107 – Weller is the “wheated” recipe from Buffalo Trace Distillery. At 107-proof, this is a bit hot straight. A splash of water opens it up nicely with banana, vanilla, and caramel notes. Also around $25 a bottle, it’s a great substitute for Maker’s Mark.
Jefferson’s Presidential Select 18 – This special 18-year-old bourbon is a pricy, limited bottling of some of the last remaining bourbon distilled at the Stitzel-Weller distillery, which closed in 1992 (meaning it’s the pretty much the same stuff that goes into the super-elusive Pappy Van Winkle 23). While $80-100 per bottle makes it a big step up in price, if you want to see what extra long aging can do to a “wheated” bourbon, this is the tasty result.
-Patrick S
photo credit: Stogie Guys
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Cigar Spirits: Whisky Stones by Teroforma
18 Feb 2013
“Put a chill in your whisky without diluting the dram of your dreams.” That’s the clever tagline for, and the concept behind, Whisky Stones, a product distributed by Teroforma.
Some of us, myself included, prefer our whisky colder than room temperature. Others like to add a splash of water to round the edges and open up the flavors. And still others are looking for both.
For folks in the latter category, ice is the preferred solution. But what if you want to chill your whisky without adding any water? Or what if you want to carefully control how much water gets added? That’s where Whisky Stones come in. They chill liquid without melting or adding flavors. And they definitely spark conversation if you’re entertaining.
Whiskey Stones ($25 for 9 cubes) are made from soapstone in Vermont. “The stones are non-porous and will impart neither flavor nor odor,” reads the package. “More gentle than ice, Whisky Stones can be used to cool down your favorite spirits just enough to take the edge off without ‘closing down’ the flavors.”
Before use, Whisky Stones are supposed to be placed in a freezer for at least four hours. After use, they can be rinsed, dried, and returned to the freezer. The talc-based soapstone is “particularly effective at retaining temperature for extended periods of time.”
Three stones are recommended for each serving of whisky, with the liquid height barely exceeding the height of the stones (as seen in my picture). In my experience, after about five minutes this makes the whisky noticeably colder—but not as cold as a similar volume of ice would have made the drink. If you are impatient and drink the whisky in less than five minutes, you may not experience much change in temperature at all. But if you take your time, and if you’ve ever accidentally killed your drink with excess melted ice, Whisky Stones are worth looking into.
Truthfully, I enjoy having them in the house, and especially like them when I have friends over for a cigar and some whisky or rum. Hopefully the effectiveness of the stones doesn’t wear off over time. I’m not fond of the name, though; I don’t like to be reminded of the existence of kidney stones—especially when I’m relaxing with a drink.
-Patrick A
photo credit: Stogie Guys
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Cigar Spirits: Bulleit 10 Bourbon
5 Feb 2013
Coming to a shelf near you is Bulleit 10, an older expression of Bulleit. I’ve always found the original Bulleit to be a tasty, spicy spirit that provides good value, while the company’s rye is one of my favorite presentations of the popular “LDI” 95% rye recipe.
Needless to say, I was pleased to try a pre-release sample offered by Bulleit’s marketing people. Bulleit 10 (featuring a white label) is made at Four Roses Distillery, maker to some of my other go-to bourbons. It sells for $45 per bottle, a significant increase from original (orange label) which can be found for around $25.
While the original doesn’t have a formal age statement except for being “straight Kentucky bourbon” (which denotes an age of at least four years unless otherwise specified), it generally contains bourbon aged between five and eight years. The whiskey in the Bulleit 10 bottle is at least 10 years old and, possibly (or at least theoretically), a bit older.
Light amber in color, it isn’t any darker in color than the younger Bulleit, which is a bit surprising given the extra age. However, on the nose the extra years become apparent with vanilla, oak, dried fruit, and floral notes.
The Bulleit 10 features dry spice, toast, marzipan, and dried fruit flavors. It’s definitely got a bit more complexity than the regular orange label version, but it maintains its spicy core. The finish is long, with still more woody spice and burnt vanilla.
All that wood and spice begs for a similarly bold cigar. Earthy and full-bodied cigars like the La Aroma Mi Amor or Padrón Family Reserve No. 45 Maduro are my recommendations.
This is a very nice bourbon and certainly even better than the already good original Bulleit, although people will have to decide for themselves if it’s really worth paying nearly twice as much. Still, it’s definitely a welcome addition to the ever-increasing number of quality bourbons on the market. It competes well with similarly-priced bourbons and is notable for its complex woodiness and spice.
-Patrick S
photo credit: Bulleit
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Cigar Spirits: Hooker’s House Rye
29 Jan 2013
I enjoyed Hooker’s House Bourbon—bottled by Prohibition Spirits—when I tried it last summer. Enough so that when I saw they were adding a rye, I felt it was well worth a try.
I’ve become skeptical of bourbon (or rye) bottled by companies that don’t distill their own whiskey, many of which just seem to slap their label on spirit they had no role in making. Hooker’s House, on the other hand, doesn’t hide the fact that they didn’t make the whiskey, but they do finish it in wine barrels that create a distinct spirit.
Plus, I have a strong suspicion that I know who makes the rye that Prohibition Spirits finishes in used California Zinfandel barrels. The number of places that make rye is limited, and the places that sell aged stock is even smaller. Between the lack of Kentucky in the marketing material and the extremely high rye content of 95%, it all points to the Indiana-based Lawrenceburg Distillers Indiana (LDI), the former Seagrams distillery that provides 95% rye for Bulleit, George Dickel, Templeton, High West, and others.
Each of those ryes is its own twist on LDI’s recipe (againg, barrels, filtration, etc…) and Hooker’s House is a “Sonoma-style American rye” because it places the rye in used Sonoma Zinfandel barrels. They don’t give a specific age statement for this 94-proof spirit, but the fact that it is described as “straight rye whiskey” means all the rye has at least 4 years of time in new charred oak barrels.
The result is a rye with a deep copper color and a spicy, woody nose with citrus and cassis. The taste has lots of rye spice—wood and pepper—plenty of heat, and hints of cherry, mint, and vanilla. The finish is long and hot, with more oak and mint.
While the Hooker’s House rye is pleasant enough, it has a rough and unbalanced edge, especially compared to their bourbon. It does, however, make a great Manhattan.
Straight up, or in a cocktail, Hooker’s House Rye calls for a full-bodied cigar. Either an earthy Nicaraguan smoke (like the Fausto) or a woody, sp