Our definitive list of Philly’s best places to eat, right here, right now.
By Jason Sheehan |
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These are the restaurants we want to eat in right now. Not yesterday. Certainly not last year. Maybe not even tomorrow. But right now. Philadelphia, at this moment, is in a state of flux that mirrors (and in some cases heralds) the changes happening in the restaurant industry at large—a movement toward a new casualness, where the best meal you’ll ever have is one you eat in blue jeans while sitting at a rough wood table in a neighborhood you wouldn’t even have driven through a decade ago. In this brave new world of cuisine, the restaurants our parents and grandparents knew—those temples of white-tablecloth haute cuisine—are struggling to find or recapture relevance. And in many cases, the cooks who trained at them are now the chefs who are taking their trade away. In order to put together this year’s list of Philly’s 50 best, we started with a total of 170 restaurants, then spent three months eating and arguing and researching and arguing and revisiting and arguing over who belonged where. The question was not only who seared the best foie gras, but which restaurants in town had the most weight. The heaviest gravity. We wanted to suss out which mattered most at this contentious moment in time, and then to figure out why. This list is our answer to those questions, compiled with a total disregard for history or nostalgia or debts owed. It’s a snapshot—a frozen instant that, we hope, serves as a window into a changing world of cuisine.
50 Best Restaurants 2013
1. Stateside
Chef George Sabatino is having a helluva year. He’s won contests and awards. He’s in command of the kitchen at one of the busiest, most popular restaurants in the city. Rumors say the James Beard House has even been sniffing around. So the question is, is Stateside really deserving of all this attention? Is it really as good as you’ve heard? Yes, it is. Everything about the place—from the ever-changing, weirdly locavore menu that touches on every vital food trope in play on the national scene, to the bar, the room, and the hum of energy from a crowd that knows it has found itself at the center of something exciting—marks Stateside as not just Philadelphia’s first truly post-gastropub restaurant, but the place where American cuisine has finally come into its own.
Don’t Miss: The smoked pork rillette with Korean BBQ sauce. It’s at the top of the menu and is perhaps the most pointed example of Sabatino’s modern notion of borderless but firmly rooted locality.
At the Bar: As good as the menu is at Stateside, the selection of American whiskeys, bourbons and ryes is almost as impressive.
Visit one of the 50 Best Restaurants in Philadelphia: Stateside, 1536 East Passyunk Avenue, 215-551-2500.
2. Marigold Kitchen
In the past three years, this onetime West Philly boardinghouse has become the best restaurant nobody talks about. Chef Robert Halpern’s four (or six)-course prix-fixe meals regularly swell to 16 with additions of clever canapés, multiple amuse-bouches, and modernist trifles like chocolate-salt-dusted chestnut ravioli or beet-salad-flavored dipping dots. And all for $65!
Insider Tip: Go with the four-course fixed-price menu—you’ll get the same fun amuse-bouches as your six-course-ordering neighbors.
Fun Fact: If you encounter popcorn sauced with liquid nitrogen, dig in quickly to experience the fire-breathing-dragon effect.
Speculation: If this were a liquor-licensed New York restaurant, prices would start at $150 a head, easy.
Visit one of the 50 Best Restaurants in Philadelphia: Marigold Kitchen, 501 South 45th Street, 215-222-3699.
Click here to make reservations at Marigold Kitchen.
3. Vedge
No one cooks a radish like Rich Landau and Kate Jacoby at Vedge. No one treats beets, rutabagas or mushrooms the way the kitchen here does. Because of this innovation and attention to detail, Vedge isn’t just the best vegetarian restaurant in Philadelphia; it’s one of the city’s best restaurants, period. Spend one night here and you’ll never look at a tofurkey with anything but shame ever again.
Get Your Mind Blown: By the sweet-potato pâté with grain mustard and toast, proof that smartly handled veggies can hold their own against proteins any day.
For the Dedicated Vegetable Enthusiast: On its best days, the daily “Dirt Menu” at Vedge is one of the most innovative boards in the city.
Visit one of the 50 Best Restaurants in Philadelphia: Vedge, 1221 Locust Street, 215-320-7500.
4. The Farm and Fisherman
One of a growing roster of chefs who’ve come home to open restaurants in Philadelphia, Josh Lawler, owner of the Farm and Fisherman, is taking best advantage of the city’s location close to the Jersey Shore and just an hour or so from the farms of Lancaster. Lawler can make vegetables sing even in the depths of winter, but with the bounties of summer, he turns his attractive Pine Street BYOB into a colorful chorus of all things seasonal. After a tour of local farmers’ markets, the chef turns conductor: A Jersey tomato is coaxed to new heights, a day-boat scallop becomes a soloist, Lancaster steak stars as an entrée worth an encore.
Don’t Miss: The beet steak. It’s been Lawler’s signature since he opened, and for good reason. It isn’t often that the lowly beet can be reasonably compared to the finest cuts of beef.
Visit one of the 50 Best Restaurants in Philadelphia: The Farm and Fisherman, 1120 Pine Street, 267-687-1555.
5. Le Virtù
Joe Cicala’s homage to Abruzzo gets more right than the pasta (which it does gloriously). It actually feels like a place you’d find out in the Italian countryside, where beautifully rustic food goes for family-friendly prices.
Food Wow: The m accheroni alla mugnaia is a single noodle—a six-foot-long hand-rolled ode to chewiness, dosed with garlic and chili flakes.
Cold-Weather Cure: Savory pecorino crepes in chicken broth is the bowl of chicken soup your mom never made you.
Fun Fact: Sheep’s-milk cheeses are served with honey made by bees on the same Abruzzi farm where the sheep are raised.
Visit one of the 50 Best Restaurants in Philadelphia: Le Virtù, 1927 East Passyunk Avenue, 215-271-5626.
6. Sbraga
Kevin Sbraga’s eponymous restaurant has improved substantially since arriving on the scene about a year ago. The service has smoothed considerably with Vetri vet Ben Filecia on board, and the Top Chef victor has toned down the stunts and gimmicks just enough, while upping his focus on providing excellent food at the (almost) bargain price of $49 for the tasting menu.
Pro Tip: Maturity aside, Kevin Sbraga’s food is still fun. And nowhere is it more fun than at his chef’s counter, where he himself often cooks for six people.
Visit one of the 50 Best Restaurants in Philadelphia: Sbraga, 440 South Broad Street, 215-735-1913.
7. Fond
Fond comes to the scene with a three-pronged attack of excellence. First, you’re greeted by former Lacroix front-of-the-house guru Tory Keomanivong, who takes care of diners as well as anyone in Philadelphia. Second, chef Lee Styer and his crew handle the food with ever-improving skill and grace. Finally, don’t even think about skipping dessert, because Styer’s wife, pastry chef Jessie Prawlucki, helps each dinner end on
a high note.
Good News: With Fond’s new location comes a fully-stocked bar—though you’re still allowed to BYO on weekdays.
Don’t Miss: Styer’s risotto is second to none. And the lobster, hazelnuts and truffles added to it don’t hurt.
Visit one of the 50 Best Restaurants in Philadelphia: Fond, 1537 South 11th Street, 215-551-5000.
8. Amis
We’ve loved watching this restaurant establish a distinct identity on the Vetri family tree. Reflective of the big-personality commander-in-chief, chef Brad Spence, Amis is equal parts p layful and pensive. The just-open-enough kitchen and front bar add a vibrancy and casualness to the moody space, which is part of its appeal. There are meatballs made from swordfish. The hand-rolled pastas, a Vetri hallmark, are superlative. And Amis has one of the city’s best charcuterie programs, with a dreamy mortadella served in tissue-thin slices with hazelnut honey, or soft and spreadable on bruschetta.
The New Upscale: The bucatini tossed with creamy almond pesto and subtly spicy jalapeño best exemplifies the restaurant’s two sides—seriously cool.
Pro Tip: The tiramisu, which is often available even if it’s not printed on the menu, is possibly the best version of the ubiquitous dessert that you’ve ever had.
Visit one of the 50 Best Restaurants in Philadelphia: Amis, 412 South 13th Street, 215-732-2647.
9. Vetri
Homer sang hymns to Demeter and Apollo. American food bards sing hymns to Marc Vetri—and also his wine guru, Jeff Benjamin, if they’re savvy. Dinner at this mansion of ethereal pastas is the priciest ticket in town, but it delivers a blend of rusticity and elegance that’s rare in any city—let alone ours, where white tablecloths give us the willies but special occasions still call out for unerring service and cooking that has integrity.
Insider Tip: The coursed wine pairings show what happens when an inspired sommelier mind-melds with a master chef.
Visit one of the 50 Best Restaurants in Philadelphia: Vetri, 1312 Spruce Street, 215-732-3478.
10. Bibou
The menu at Bibou is short, but every plate coming out of the kitchen at this cozy, inviting BYO is a classic looked at with a modern eye. While French technique might be the Tao of every high-end kitchen that matters, chef Pierre Calmels’s kitchen is here to remind
us of all the reasons why French food still matters in this nouvelle American age.
What to Order: The cassoulet is the best in the city, but the truly le gendary dish here is the pied de porc—a braised pig’s foot stuffed with foie gras and French lentils.
Pro Tip: Bibou is cash-only, so don’t forget your folding money.
Visit one of the 50 Best Restaurants in Philadelphia: Bibou, 1009 South 8th Street, 215-965-8290.
Click here to make reservations at Bibou.
11. Blackfish
From the saline simplicity of raw oysters speckled with Meyer lemon to jazzed-up crudos like striped bass with yuzu syrup and radishes, Chip Roman’s range of creativity with seafood is as sweeping as the decor is spare at the BYO that continues to make Conshy a dining destination.
Favorite Dish That Will Never Die: Smoked salmon wrapped around a panko-crusted deep-fried egg.
Value Play: Tuesdays feature four courses—plus the odd amuse-bouche—for $45. If Only: There were a spot to wait for your table without looming (and salivating) over someone else’s.
Visit one of the 50 Best Restaurants in Philadelphia: Blackfish, 119 Fayette Street, 610-397-0888.
12. Brauhaus Schmitz
Yes, you can get excellent schnitzel and Bavarian pretzels at Brauhaus Schmitz. But not embracing chef Je remy Nolen’s “Modern German” cuisine ist ein grosse mistake. Dishes like his Stopfleberwurst—housemade foie gras sa usage—and the lamb prepared two ways (grilled as a chop and braised as belly) are redefining how people—smart people, anyway—look at German food. Unique Pricing: The house sells its bratwurst by the meter, so those of you who gauge your hunger by the spread of your hands (“I am this hungry tonight … ”) will feel right at home here.
Don’t Forget the Beer: Owner Doug Hager wants to do for German beer in Philadelphia what Tom Peters of Monk’s Cafe did for the Belgians. And he’s well on his way, with never-before-seen beers arriving monthly.
Visit one of the 50 Best Restaurants in Philadelphia: Brauhaus Schmitz, 718 South Street, 267-909-8814.
Click here to make reservations at Brauhaus Schmitz.
13. Osteria
Jeff Michaud and Marc Vetri’s bustling North Broad operation is said to be one of the best Italian restaurants in the country, and we’ve got no reason to argue. Whether you sit at the bar and share a speck/radicchio or escarole/gorgonzola pizza and a couple of glasses of wine, or find yourself in the see-and-be-seen dining room and buy into the whole Italian primi/secondi way of eating, you’re in good hands here.
Best of the Best: The Parma pizza is still one of the finest pies in the city, hands down.
You’d Be Surprised to Know: That Osteria isn’t as absurdly expensive as you might think. You can eat comfortably for well under $100 per person. Not cheap, but a great value for what you get on your plate.
Visit one of the 50 Best Restaurants in Philadelphia: Osteria, 640 North Broad Street, 215-763-0920.
14. Zahav
There’s no roast chicken, no pizza with an egg on it, no sweet-potato fries. Not here. Zahav caters neither to trends nor to your usual cravings—unless you’re someone who gets regular hankerings for sweetbread schnitzel or raw lamb with sumac and shallots. No, what Michael Solomonov and crew always do so brilliantly at his modern Israeli hot spot is stun your brain and belly out of their gastropub complacency with fried cauliflower brightened with mint and dill, or velvety, buttery hummus with warm laffa you can tear into, or tender grilled duck hearts with sweet cherries. And for this, Zahav is more than just something different: It’s a game-changer.
Best Seat in the House: Each weekend, Solomonov cooks personally for no more than eight people at Zahav’s Chef’s Counter.
Rare find: The servers—so unobtrusive they’re almost ninjas—are among the best in town.
Visit one of the 50 Best Restaurants in Philadelphia: Zahav, 237 St. James Place, 215-625-8800.
15. Vernick Food and Drink
Philadelphia, this is a newcomer worth keeping an eye on. And we know it will only get better than it already is. Well-pedigreed and with strong vision, chef-owner Greg Vernick is turning out accessible, clean, thoughtful food at his airy new eatery. Take, for example, the delicious selection of toasts. He spent plenty of time figuring out the best bread (a tangy sourdough from Metropolitan won out), which he chars over lava rocks (seriously!) before layering on toppings such as a brandade-like briny crabmeat, or peas and bacon. Many of his dishes have a touch of something acidic—a pickled chili here, a black-olive dressing there—that keeps you reaching for more, and more, and more.
All Good in the ’Hood: The easy vibe and approachable menu at Vernick make it one of those rare restaurants that can suit so many things: dinner with food-snob friends, cocktails with a gal pal, a meal with the non-adventurous in-laws.
Visit one of the 50 Best Restaurants in Philadelphia: Vernick Food and Drink, 2031 Walnut Street, 267-639-6644.
16. Will
Will was one of the most anticipated openings of the year—especially considering its location in one of the most closely watched food neighborhoods in the city. And yet even with all that pressure, it drew almost unanimous raves for chef Chris Kearse’s conceptual creativity and museum-grade plating, neither of which gets in the way of simple, soul-soothing deliciousness at the best new BYOB of 2012.
Can’t-Miss Dish: Scallops with almond milk and uni mousse.
Did You Know: Kearse overcame an auto accident—and more than 20 reconstructive surgeries—before becoming a chef.
If Only: The tables weren’t crammed together like Indian pilgrims in a third-class train car.
Visit one of the 50 Best Restaurants in Philadelphia: Will, 1911 East Passyunk Avenue, 215-271-7683.
17. Fork
Terence Feury was a tough act to follow in the kitchen, but for owner Ellen Yin, bringing in hot New York chef Eli Kulp was a masterful move. Kulp has unleashed yet another blast of creativity into this venerable (but by no means stuffy) Old City institution. Insider Tip: This is one place where entrées can outshine appetizers, so save room.
Can’t-Miss Dish: Guinea hen with pear marbles and horseradish cream.
If Only: Servers delivered the food menu along with the cocktail list, so you wouldn’t feel railroaded into ordering a drink that might clash with your appetizer.
Visit one of the 50 Best Restaurants in Philadelphia: Fork, 306 Market Street, 215-625-9425.
18. Zeppoli
This Collingswood BYO describes itself as “very intimate.” What they mean is “extremely small”—only 35 seats, so getting in at prime time isn’t always easy, even on a weeknight. And once you do get in, you’ll spend a fair amount of time jockeying for floor space with the person at the table behind you. But if you can endure all that, you’ll be treated to delicious, expertly conceived and completely un-fussy Italian plates like house-made tagliatelle topped with bottarga (a Sicilian cured fish roe), grilled swordfish or stewed rabbit.
Behind the Music: Chef Joey Baldino’s last job was as chef de cuisine at Vetri.
You Should Probably Know: That Collingswood police take the whole DUI thing very seriously. If you’re driving from Philly and bringing your own, mind the consumption.
Visit one of the 50 Best Restaurants in Philadelphia: Zeppoli, 618 Collings Avenue, 856-854-2670.
19. Han Dynasty
Han Chiang knows how to get Philly hot and bothered—whether it’s with scorching Szechuan peppercorns or deliciously profane tableside banter. This year, he added another weapon to his arsenal: Katie Loeb’s tiki drinks at the new University City location.
Can’t-Miss Dish: Dandan noodles. They’re just as good as you’ve heard.
Mandatory side: Spicy crispy cucumbers.
If Only: Han Chiang himself could wait on every table, spreading his knack for crafting a meal along with his trademark irreverence.
Visit one of the 50 Best Restaurants in Philadelphia: Han Dynasty, 3711 Market Street, University City, 215-222-3711.
21. Amada
Seven years can be several lifetimes in the restaurant biz, but Amada isn’t showing any signs of age. Though Jose Garces has since turned into an epicurean megastar—that’s Iron Chef Garces to you—his first restaurant’s tapas always taste just as authentic as they did when he first opened the place way back in 2005. Plus, since the front of the house has always been a particular obsession for Garces, the service here is warm, knowledgeable and attentive. Don’t Miss: The crab-stuffed peppers.
For Special Occasions: The $75 lobster paella is a must.
If Only: You could get a table during normal dining hours. Make reservations far in advance, especially for weekend dining.
Visit one of the 50 Best Restaurants in Philadelphia: Amada, 217 Chestnut Street, 215-625-2450.
22. The Dandelion
If you’re going to have a British pub in Philadelphia, one thing that can help it rise above theme-restaurant schlock? Having an incredibly talented British chef running the kitchen. At the Dandelion, Robert Aikens sidesteps the overdone gastropub label by offering a menu that depends on comfort more than surprises and practiced classics over technical flourishes. Yet the offerings are deep enough that no matter how often you find yourself here, there always seems to be something new to try.
On the Level: The Dandelion has a warren of dining rooms on different floors, all done up in varying levels of kitsch, but the best seats in the house are still at the crowded main bar on the first floor.
Teatime: Afternoon tea (complete with a full cocktail list) is offered every day between three and five o’clock.
Visit one of the 50 Best Restaurants in Philadelphia: The Dandelion, 124 South 18th Street, 215-558-2500.
23. Tashan
“But they don’t even eat octopus in India,” said one Tashan diner early in the restaurant’s tenure. “This isn’t authentic Indian food,” said another. Both parties are correct. But so what? After changing the way we eat Indian food throughout the region with his entry-level Tiffin mini-chain, owner Munish Narula took a huge gamble with this swank, modern Indian restaurant that regularly invokes the F-word (fusion) while charting a bold course with modern Indian flavors. Whether this gamble pays off will depend largely on people being able to wrap their heads around the idea of going out for Indian food and not just getting ta