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161
January 19th, 2012
MUGLER Mens AW12-13
Quipping on the codes of militaria and uniform, team MUGLER subjected their willing audience to a barrage of hyperdrive tailoring last night, on the first day of Autumn Winter 2012-13 menswear shows in Paris. A set of identical twins opened the show, each strapped to a movie camera that continued the theme (and the broadcast) of the Mugler Live project – a 3-day live streaming event that saw over 30,000 viewers tune in to pre-show castings, fittings and styling sessions at the Mugler atelier.
As Azealia Banks hit the sound system and a backdrop encrusted in black glitter set the scene, a buff cast of new faces (cast with the Marines in mind) paraded a formal collection ruled by bold coats, capes and sculptural suits. The designer Romain Kremer proposed familiar flared and angled shapes from the house archives, in new materials like psychadelic satin jacquards, gum-coated cottons and slick patent leather.
Pops of pink jacquard and stripes of patent leather popped in a predominantly dark palette, as did Paraboot's buckle creepers and lace-ups exploding with glitter. Long-line backless waistcoats were elegant and sexy, while cocooning overcoats and zip blousons felt like a step forward in luxury and wearability. The third volume in Mugler menswear smells of violent success, with no apologies and certainly no prisoners.
Photography by Reto Schmid.
BY: Daniel Thawley
TAGS: MUGLER, Nicola Formichetti, Romain Kremer, Thierry Mugler |
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160
January 12th, 2012
J.W.Anderson PREVIEW Autumn Winter 2012-13
J.W.Anderson Autumn Winter 2011-12 preview, photographed by Alex Sainsbury, styled by Benjamin Bruno.
BY: Daniel Thawley
TAGS: Alex Sainsbury, Benjamin Bruno, J.W.Anderson, Jonathan Anderson |
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159
January 12th, 2012
Dior Homme Pre Collection 2012
Beginning as a low-key preview (timed to hit stores months before the catwalk collection), the concept of a Pre-Fall collection has morphed into its own phenomenon – prompting designers to conceive unconventional lookbook images, pre-empt the new faces for the coming season, and secure interest in their main catwalk offering just two months later.
Following in the footsteps of the womenswear market, Dior Homme has unveiled a concisely-edited capsule collection for 2012, leading the recent surge of menswear labels who have adopted this mid-season trend. Kris Van Assche has honed the label's keystone offerings and made them his own, adding lightness and fluid volume to sportwear and tailoring. Interpreting classic wardrobe staples like the zip blouson, the trench, the macintosh and the white chemise, Van Assche lends a sense of unfinished elegance – whether it be the selvedge edge along a blazer lapel or precise leather inserts adding quiet luxury to a raglan-sleeved coat. A white cotton t-shirt finished with shirt sleeves epitomises the designer's grasp of simple sophistication in menswear.
Experience the collection images featuring Timothy Kelleher and Caleb Trent below.
www.diorhomme.com
BY: Daniel Thawley
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158
December 19th, 2011
Elle Fanning by Bill Owens
In Kate & Laura Mulleavy’s home state of California, the iconic American photographer Bill Owens channeled the summer spirit of Santa Cruz in an exclusive shoot of Somewhere actress Elle Fanning, combining the delicate pastels of the Rodarte Spring Summer 2012 Pitti Couture collection with Van Cleef & Arpels Haute Joaillerie and surf wear in an eclectic 1970′s villa. This represents the collection’s worldwide exclusive in a fashion shoot (not before, never again) as the ten unique dresses have been acquired by the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, as a part of their permanent collection.
Photography by Bill Owens
Creative direction by Kate & Laura Mulleavy, Rodarte
Jewellery by Van Cleef & Arpels
Styling by Ashley Furnival & Shirley Kurata
Makeup by Uzo at NARS Cosmetics
Hair by Michael Long
Manicure by Barbara Warner for D+G Nail Lacquer & Celestine Agency.
Production: Evan Hurd & Black Frame.
Prop styling and airbrushed surfboard: Adam Siegel.
Assistant to rodarte: Kristen Nichols. Interns: Bo Matthew Metz, Alex Dichne & Anna Slevin.
Collection made with Swarovski Elements.
Additional shoes by Converse. Additional clothing by American Apparel, The Loved One (LA), and Wasteland Clothing (LA). Sunglasses by Mercura.
Elle Fanning wears NARS’ “Penny lane” cream blush, “Roman Holiday” lipstick & “Barbarella” lipstick
BY: Daniel Thawley
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157
December 15th, 2011
Ami Sioux, ‘The Next in Line’ EP
Paris-based Californian photographer-turned-songstress Ami Sioux released her debut EP ‘The Next in Line’ today at Colette Paris with an intimate concert in the concept store’s gallery space. The EP marks an exciting progression in Ami’s career, following recent performances in Paris and elsewhere in Europe – including gigs for Agnes B. and Martine Sitbon’s Rue du Mail. Her gravel-toned vocals and acoustic guitar are a welcome touch of California-cool in the Parisian scene, with folk melodies and poetic vocals that tug at the heartstrings.
Above: Ami Sioux ‘The Next in Line’ EP illustrated by Cédric Rivrain, designed by EEM Paris.
BY: Daniel Thawley
TAGS: Ami Sioux, Cédric Rivrain, Colette, EEM Paris |
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156
December 15th, 2011
A#11 Preview: Elle Fanning by Bill Owens
A BLOG x the POP is delighted to present a sneak preview of ‘A MAGAZINE curated by Rodarte‘, hitting news stands worldwide in the coming days. In Kate & Laura Mulleavy’s home state of California, the iconic American photographer Bill Owens channeled the summer spirit of Santa Cruz in an exclusive shoot of Somewhere actress Elle Fanning, combining the delicate pastels of the Rodarte Spring Summer 2012 Pitti Couture collection with Van Cleef & Arpels Haute Joaillerie and surf wear in an eclectic 1970′s villa. This represents the collection’s worldwide exclusive in a fashion shoot (not before, never again) as the ten unique dresses have been acquired by the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, as a part of their permanent collection.
Above: Elle Fanning wears the lime silk georgette and crinkle silk chiffon pleated gown with hand molded Easter Lilies, feathers, and SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS.
BY: Daniel Thawley
TAGS: Bill Owens, Elle Fanning, LACMA, Rodarte, Van Cleef & Arpels |
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155
December 5th, 2011
Mary Katrantzou’s life aquatic, by EMH
As one of London’s shining new fashion stars, Mary Katrantzou’s vidid printed womenswear has become a hallmark of the new ladylike guard of British designers – alongside names like Christopher Kane, Erdem and Richard Nicoll. Closely following her progress, NY-based artist Erik Madigan Heck continues his fascination with Mary’s surrealist prints, in a brilliant new series for his online title Nomenus Quarterly, shot in New York this November. Blurring the disciplines of painting and photography within a fashion context, Erik has taken inspiration from portraits of the late Frida Kahlo – a feminist artistic figure whose surrealist, folk art has been described by André Breton as like “a ribbon around a bomb”.
A BLOG is proud to present this latest collaboration between Mary and Erik, a series of eight images wherein each blossoming handpainted scenes is a direct reaction to the garments, and a careful study in the manipulation of colour and light to achieve a spectacular optical effect.
Photographs and Art Direction: Erik Madigan Heck
Styling: Heidi Bivens
Set Design and Prop Styling: Eli Metcalf
Hair: Tamara McNaughton
Make-Up: Deanna Melluso
Model: Mary Cann @ One Model Management
Casting Director: Alina Zakaite
Floral headpieces: Young & Ng
BY: amag
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154
November 22nd, 2011
A#11 is curated by Rodarte
A MAGAZINE are delighted to announce the curating designers of A#11 are Kate & Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte. Hailing from Pasadena, the sisters received their liberal arts degrees from the University of California at Berkeley in 2001, and established the label Rodarte (taken from their mother’s Spanish maiden name) in 2005. The pair debuted their first collection in New York for Spring Summer 2006, to critical acclaim – and have since been lauded worldwide for their artistic, artisanal approach to fashion, fused with abstract cultural references from the disciplines of history, science, cinema and art.
‘A MAGAZINE curated by Rodarte’ explores the world of Kate and Laura Mulleavy across 200 pages of photography, art, interviews, and personal contributions. In an ode to the West Coast and the Mulleavy’s singular vision of America, A#11 weaves a vibrant tapestry of natural and built environments, featuring inspiring landscapes and the characters that inhabit those worlds. Highlights include two exclusively commissioned portfolios, featuring Kirsten Dunst in the Rodarte Fall Winter 2011 collection photographed by David Armstrong, and Elle Fanning in the Rodarte ten-piece Spring Summer 2012 Couture collection photographed by Bill Owens.
With artistic contributions from contemporary talents such as Jay DeFeo, John Baldessari and Buffy’s Joss Whedon, the pages of A#11 offer vivid imagery that plays not only upon Kate and Laura’s own personal experience, but elements of history and the background of their favorite people and places.
Fusing content from the Rodarte archives with never-before-seen imagery and interviews, A#11 is an ultimately personal oeuvre, a ‘carte-blanche’ that Kate and Laura have approached with relish and truly inspired ideas. From the beaches of Santa Cruz to the distant stars to the history of California’s extinct Grizzlies, A#11 is an eye-opening, side-winding work that bridges the worlds of fashion, art, music and film across the last century.
Due for worldwide release in December 2011.
A MAGAZINE curated by Rodarte is supported by Van Cleef & Arpels, J. Crew and NARS Cosmetics.
Above: The cover is dedicated to the now-extinct California Grizzly Bear, native to Kate & Laura Mulleavy’s home state. Inside the issue, an exclusively-commissioned article by Ted O’Callahan is accompanied by a vivid portfolio of Grizzly Bear imagery from the archives of National Geographic.
Above: Laura and Kate Mulleavy by Inez and Vinoodh, courtesy of The Collective Shift and Trunk Archive.
BY: Daniel Thawley
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153
November 4th, 2011
House keys…
Further cementing his signatures in the DNA of the house of Givenchy, A#8′s Riccardo Tisci has launched the latest menswear must-have for Spring Summer 2012, the key ring lanyard.
Evoking elements of surf and street culture, the woven jacquard accessory is adorned with a technical snap-lock mechanism akin to the house’s ‘Obsedia’ buckle – a severe, symbolic icon that Tisci christened in 2010.
Seen here in the Givenchy menswear show for Spring Summer 2012, the key ring lanyard will be street-style bait, joining this season’s rottweiler prints and Riccardo’s endless flow of menswear success stories (think SS10′s tartan, SS11′s leopard… the list goes on).
The key ring lanyard hits stores in February.
BY: Daniel Thawley
TAGS: Givenchy, Riccardo Tisci |
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152
October 10th, 2011
A Moment in Time, Kris Van Assche
As though documenting the candid musings of two old friends who reconnect in a familiar café, Dutch director Joost Vandebrug has captured a sense of melancholy in his new film for the designer Kris Van Assche. On the occasion of the Spring Summer 2012 collection, this short film entitled ‘A Moment in Time’ follows a conversation about past and present, about the preoccupations of self and ego – how lives drift apart, and how that’s OK. How mutual memories between friends form a collective history, connecting people with places, sensations and emotions.
The two philosophical characters (played by Clemens Chick and Jerome Ribiero) have clearly incongruous accents, and are both returning to a place they once lived, yet never necessarily belonged to. Their garments further exemplify the atemporal nature of their situation – classical but not stiff, casual yet with an air of elegance. These are men whose paths crossed for the better, who have impacted upon one another’s lives, yet who move forward as friends without commitment – content in the knowledge that neither holds expectations for the future.
www.krisvanassche.com // Click here to watch the film