MUGLER Mens AW12-13

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Quipping on the codes of militaria and uniform, team MUGLER subjected their willing audience to a barrage of hyperdrive tailoring last night, on the first day of Autumn Winter 2012-13 menswear shows in Paris. A set of identical twins opened the show, each strapped to a movie camera that continued the theme (and the broadcast) of the Mugler Live project – a 3-day live streaming event that saw over 30,000 viewers tune in to pre-show castings, fittings and styling sessions at the Mugler atelier.

As Azealia Banks hit the sound system and a backdrop encrusted in black glitter set the scene, a buff cast of new faces (cast with the Marines in mind) paraded a formal collection ruled by bold coats, capes and sculptural suits. The designer Romain Kremer proposed familiar flared and angled shapes from the house archives, in new materials like psychadelic satin jacquards, gum-coated cottons and slick patent leather. Pops of pink satin and stripes of patent leather popped in a predominantly dark palette, as did Paraboot’s buckle creepers and lace-ups exploding with glitter. Long-line backless waistcoats were elegant and sexy, while cocooning overcoats and zip blousons felt like a step forward in luxury and wearability. The third volume in Mugler menswear smells of violent success, with no apologies and certainly no prisoners.

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Photography by Reto Schmid.

POSTED BY

 Dan the Scout, 19. January 2012

TAGGED WITH

 MUGLER, Nicola Formichetti, Romain Kremer, Thierry Mugler

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