The Skinny Bib

Duck of Bayswater

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Translation

Years after years, when it comes to Cantonese roast duck, we talk about the best of best at Four Seasons Restaurant in London. More recently, I have spotted another Four Seasons outpost – its third branch! – in Chinatown and during my last trip to Bangkok, Thailand I came across the vacuum-packed frozen Four Seasons roast duck retailed at Bangkok’s high-end supermarket Gourmet Market at Siam Paragon. For your record, one whole imported duck cost an estimate of £60!!! I have to admit, as far as my Four Seasons experience goes, I am not against their roast duck and think it’s delish. But, it depends on the day and the duck you get. From time to time, I come across ducks that are more greasy and fatty than other, which puts my appetite off. The reputedly bad service, I can cope with – as one should never expect brilliant service even from a high-end Chinese restaurant. That said, this post of mine isn’t about the roast duck of Four Seasons. THAT would have been boring. So, I’m giving you my roast duck alternative from the Chinese food haunt Bayswater where Four Seasons Restaurant first opened its door.

THE WORTHY RIVAL: GOLD MINE RESTAURANT

 

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Gold Mine Restaurant is just a few steps away from the original Four Season and I vouch their Cantonese roast duck is as good or even BETTER than Four Seasons! The thin but fatti-licious grease layer is sandwiched between the crispy skin and the very plump meat. Not one bit is over-roasted! The sauce that came with the duck oozes out spices and the extremely rich sweetness that makes the duck itself so delectably moist, juicy and hearty. The lightly cooked Chinese Leaf provided bites and natural sweetness that undercuts and freshens up the palate. This isn’t much of a departure from Four Seasons roast duck. Of course not as it’s been alleged that the head chef at Gold Mine also worked as head chef at Four Seasons.

 

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Indeed, the menu at Gold Mine is very similar to Four Seasons Restaurant but I find the dishes at Gold Mine better executed. Many of my favourites are Deep Fried Squid with Salt and Pepper, Steamed Sea Bass with Ginger and Spring Onions, Veal Chop with Salt and Pepper and the one never to be missed? It is this Sizzling Aubergine with Minced Pork and Chilli. Expect chunky batons of skin-on aubergines cooked to the perfect softness. The real magic is that this spongy vegetable sucks up the best, the depth of the flavours of minced pork, spring onions, chilli, garlic and oyster sauce combined. One warning – this dish is quite fiery!

 

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Enough said,

My head rating for Gold Mine’s Roast Duck says, “9 out of 10″.

My heart rating says, “10 out of 10″.

GOLD MINE

102 Queensway
Bayswater
London
W2 3RR

Tel. 020 7792 8331
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For the alternative …. NEW FORTUNE COOKIE!

 

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I think the roast duck at New Fortune Cookie, next to Queensway Tube Station and Royal China Club, is also worth bookmarking. Though this dish follows the same taste philosophy as Four Seasons and Gold Mine ducks, the New Fortune Cookie version is much lighter, less sweet and less fatty. It’s like having a health-oriented version of the same dish. The focus here is not on the crispy skin and the fat but the tender meat. That said, the chewy skin isn’t particularly appetising and I usually set it aside. Here goes ..

 

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Other decent dishes at NFC are, for example, the crispy noodle with seafood and the stir fried lobster with ginger and spring onions. During my last visit to New Fortune Cookie, I tried this Chopped Mixed Seafood in Egg White Wrap. The flavour was quite subtly good but the pieces weren’t much of a bite size and things went all over the place once cut opened.

 

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My head rating for New Fortune Cookie’s Roast Duck says, “7 out of 10″.

My heart rating says, “7 out of 10″.

NEW FORTUNE COOKIE

1 Queensway
Bayswater
London
W2 4QJ

Tel. 020 7727 7260

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7 Responses

  1. Pingback: Weekly roundup of national restaurant critics by @OliverThring, 14/02 | iStarvin Blog

  2. Pingback: Spice Market London: Style or Substance? « The Skinny Bib

  3. spacer Kay@chopstix2steaknives says:
    February 15, 2011 at 1:06 AM

    Ooh, I have also tried Gold Mine and it is sometimes better than Four Seasons. A healthier version at NFC? I’ll have to check it out.

    Reply
  4. spacer theskinnybib says:
    February 15, 2011 at 1:12 AM

    Just a little healthier as there is less fat and more meat. Plus the sauce isn’t as sweet though I’m sure it’s still ultra high in calories!

    Reply
  5. spacer Yeebot says:
    March 1, 2011 at 9:07 AM

    Many years ago when I was trying to choose a roast duck restaurant all the reviews said Four Seasons and Gold Mine. There was quite a debate. In the end I decided on Gold Mine and have since never been to Four Seasons. But looking at all the recent reviews comparing the two I’m thinking I might not need to for a while!

    Reply
    • spacer theskinnybib says:
      March 1, 2011 at 11:55 PM

      I think it’s not just the roast duck but the whole menu at Goldmine is more enticing than Four Seasons. I used to alternate between both but now, like you, only Gold Mine. Their steamed sea bass with Ginger and spring onions is v delicious too!

      Reply
  6. Pingback: Pearl Liang « The Skinny Bib

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