Excerpts from Omer & Bob’s “Winter Gear F.A.Q.”…

What is sidecut/sidecut radius and how do I make sense of it?

The Straight Dope on Sidecut

Sidecut is that elegant arc that creates the edge of a ski or snowboard. A ski without any sidecut is completely straight; a ski with lots of sidecut flaunts the ubiquitous hourglass figure. Before we settle any other definitions, let’s examine the information that is commonly presented with skis and snowboards as a reference. Manufacturers typically display the following parameters somewhere on their product, be it upon a visible sticker or etched in permanent print on the topsheet. We’ll use a specific alpine ski, the Atomic Metron M11 (circa 2007), as our example:

Dimensions

These represent the width of the ski at the widest points of the tip, waist (or middle) and tail. The exact details of measurement may vary with manufacturer slighty with manufacturer. From the dimensions above, we know that the Metron M:11 has a width of 76mm at the waist.

Sidecut

Technically this is the difference between an average of the tip and tail measurements and the waist of the ski or snowboard, divided by two. Practically speaking, if you placed the ski sideways against a wall so that the edges at the tip and tail were touching the flat surface, the sidecut would turn out to be the distance from the waist edge of the ski to that wall. Instead of listing the sidecut as a single number, like 22mm, some companies use the terms sidecut and dimensions interchangeably. Sidecut tells you how much arc or shape your skis possess.

Turn / Sidecut Radius

If you think of the sidecut as an arc, imagine that this arc describes part of a gigantic circle, one that you could draw in chalk on pavement if you traced the curving edge of your ski and extended beyond it. The turn radius (sometimes called sidecut radius as well) of a ski or snowboard is defined by this imaginery circle, always expressed in meters. Though the dimensions of a ski remain fairly constant throughout the differing lengths it is offered in, the turn radius increases with length. Imagine that as the distance from tip to tail increases, that visible arc simply gets longer. This increases the size of the imaginary circle which consequently lengthens the radius, and is the reason that a turn radius is refered to only with a specific length.

How do I use the various ski characteristics (sidecut, flex, length) to make a descision about skis?

Now that you know what the terminology means (see previous question), let’s examine how you can use it to deconstruct the soul of a given ski.

Waist Width

This is typically the dimension used to define the application of a ski.

• ~72mm and below. Carvers. On skis with narrow widths, the transition from one edge to the other takes less time to complete. If transitions are faster, then you spend more time on your edges and the skis will hold better on harder snow without washing out and skidding inappropriately. Boards in this category are often called Carving Skis and are the most fun on groomed trails. Think of all those times when you’ve started turning on a bare spot (where the snow has been scraped away to reveal an ice-like layer) and had to bail and just go straight; the right Carvers can usually bite into this stuff with confidence.
• 74mm to 88mm. Mid-Fat. We consider these widths to be All-Mountain or Mid-Fat in the East, and as the names suggest, are found on skis that can tackle the terrain on the entire mountain. What you get is a wider platform that affords more stability and float in natural snow. Natural snow can be anything from untracked powder to thick spring mush, and narrower skis will cause you to fall more often in these unpredictable conditions. Par example, a ski that is 78mm at the waist will provide good edgehold on the groomers – just not as good as a 67er (assuming both have the same construction & flex) – but it will also make glade runs or backcountry forays all the more enjoyable.
• 88mm – 100mm. Fat. These skis are definitely portly, gluttonous powder indulgers. They fit snugly into the Fat category. They make short work of powder but wash out more easily on hardpack, unable to cut sharp ribbons as preciscely as the Carvers, though most still ski suprisingly well on groomed snow. Perfect for the backcountry and able to handle just about anything mother nature can dump, thaw and refreeze. Great for someone does more off-trail skiing than on and avoids the race course.
• 100mm – 130mm+. Super-Fat. Only powder skiers need apply. We don’t stock skis of this width at Omer and Bob’s because few people would ever buy them for local (Upper Valley) usage. They usually possess minimal sidecut, soft flexes and the flotation of a thousand life preservers. A powder diet proportional to their width is required to sustain them. If you like to put in the extra work to find the deep, untracked stuff, and you ski the Northern Green mountains or the Whites (and you already own three other pairs of skis), these could be for you.

Sidecut / Turn-Radius

There is no perfect amount of sidecut for each level of skier; it’s all based on personal preference.

• Short-Radius (10 to 14 meters). They allow beginners and intermediates the ability to carve turns at lower speeds and on slopes with more moderate angles. Experts will enjoy ripping tight, ultra-quick turns on any terrain. Often refered to as a Slalom sidecut, because Slalom races feature tightly spaced gates and favor quick-turning boards. The more advanced slalom-cut skis definately require strength and technique to handle because, by design, they constantly yearn to turn. Note that many of the shorter, women’s specific skis have turn radii in this range: since turn radius is a function of ski length, a tighter radius is the natural result.
• Medium-Radius (about 14 to 16 meters). Here you have skis that can be brought around in tighter turns or longer radius arcs, depending on your speed and edge pressure. Makes a variety of turn shapes.
• Long-Radius (17 meters and above). These skis hold an edge better during longer radius, high speed turns. They will generally be more stable and track straighter at higher speeds because of the relatively smaller shovel and tail widths. Long-radius skis are better in moguls because the aggressive sidecut doesn’t catch (and most of the turns are in the air). Less sidecut is generally better in powder as well, because a ski with a more uniform surface area will float better. Called a Giant Slalom or GS sidecut because of the penchant for long, sweeping turns.

Longitudinal Flex

• Softer. A softer-flexing ski takes less effort to pressure into a turn. Skis designed for less advanced skiers are softer for easy turning at low speeds and without precise technqiue. But softer skis are also the best in powder, because the soft flex keeps the ski above the snow rather than plunging it beneath. Also, it is the soft flex of a ski that allows it to be flexed into a turn in powder, not the sidecut–sidecut only swings your skis into a turn when it is pressed against a firm base. High speeds and hard turns are their weakness; the skis will wash out more easily on hardpack and feel chattery and unstable while straight-lining.
• Stiffer. Provides the most edge-holding power, but requires the most energy from a skier to control. Advanced skis usually have more metal laminate in the body to provide this stiffness. The stiffer the ski, the more power and technqiue are necessary. You’ll be able to attack steeper slopes with the confidence that your skis will hold the turns. Skis with stiff flexes are not the best choice for powder because they tend to submarine, and stiffer skis are heavier, which means more work in the backcountry.

Length

As far as length goes, there could be two or even three different lengths in a specific model suited to certain uses and ability levels at the same skier weight. Manufacturers provide us with suggested weight ranges for each ski model. Generally speaking, the ski tips should hit you somewhere in the face, but this will be modified by how and where you intend to ski, as well as by the characteristics of your skis.

• Shorter. In the same ski model, the shorter skis have softer flexes. This means that they require less effort and technique to put on edge, a trait that makes them friendlier to beginners. A shorter ski also has a tighter turning radius. If you ski gladed runs (where short turns are necessary to avoid eating bark) or just like making quick carves, shorter skis are probably for you. For most skiing in the New England backcountry on its narrow, winding trails, shorter skis make the most sense.
• Longer. In contrast, a longer ski of the same model has a stiffer flex, which translates to better edgehold and vibration damping (absorbtion) at higher speeds. Longer skis float better in powder as well because of their increased running surface. Their stiffer flex means a skier has to put more muscle and up-and-down movement into each carve, however, so make sure you’re up to the task. Longer turn radii make them great for sweeping GS turns.

Though you can easily isolate several attributes of a single ski model and disscet them under a microscope, remember that ski construction is like mixing cocktails. All the individual properties blend together to form something unique. This is where the fine fellows at Omer and Bob’s can help you. We’ve collectively demoed hundreds of skis, so come on in and take advantage of our knowledge and experience.

Excerpts from Omer & Bob’s “Ski & Snowboard Waxing Guide”…

How do I “hot wax” my alpine skis, snowboard or Nordic skis for glide?

Congratulations! This simply the most fun you will have with wax, ever. There are a few things you need before you can begin the process. Create a work space that is both heated and provides adequate ventilation. To inhale clouds of burning wax fumes is to veer sharply from the road to wellness, so at least keep a window open. Some device is needed to hold your skis or snowboard while you toil; a dedicated bench mounted with tuning vises is the most direct solution. Be a little afraid of $2.00 yard sale irons. The temp on a clothing iron often swings wildly between heating cycles , which leads inevitably to smoking wax and the potential for damaged ski bases. Specific waxing irons have accurate gauges with a range designed for wax, are lightweight and possess flat heating plates. The last tools you’ll require are a plastic scraper (plus a groove scraper for Nordic skis) and a nylon brush. Of course you need the block of glide wax you selected.

Clean the bases. Start with clean ski bases at room temperature. Base cleaner on a rag is all you need for the quick version; apply sparingly and wipe like you’re cleaning a counter.

Mask the kick zone (if necessary). Put masking tape over the kick zone of classic cross-country skis to protect it from dripping wax, whether you belong to the waxless or waxable clan. Glide wax interferes with the binding ability of kick wax, and it takes the patience of a monk to clean out the waxless crown pattern should it become blanketed. Don’t get any glide wax in your kick zone. Alpine skis, snowboards and skate skis only possess glide zones, so you’ll be waxing the whole entire base in those cases and can obviously forgo the masking tape solution.

Warm the iron. Set your iron to the melting temperature suggested on the wax package. Too low a temp and the wax won’t melt and be absorbed properly, too high and it will burn and smoke and make you generally unhappy. Again, take our sage advice and purchase a dedicated waxing iron. Briskly wipe the iron surface as wax remaining from previous jobs liquefies so as not to mix different types. Let the iron warm for at least 10 minutes.

Melt & drip the wax. Holding the iron above the ski base, use your other hand to press the wax block against the heated surface. Moving steadily from tip to tail, drip beads of wax onto the ski base. It aids accuracy to tilt the iron and guide the molten stream off one of the corners. Droplets should be a tad smaller than dime-sized and be spaced roughly 1 to 1.5 centimeters apart. Don’t break out the ruler here and measure drop diameter, just keep on drippin’. Usually about three passes is enough, but exceedingly fat skis and all snowboards will need more to achieve adequate coverage. Fill in any bare spots you notice. Congrats, now your base is covered with dots of wax.

Iron the wax in. Make an initial quick pass or two with the iron to smooth out the dropplets and pave the way for supreme wax absorbtion. Now move the iron in one continuous motion from tip to tail, melting everything together into a single happy layer. Moving it back and forth causes uneven heating that can damage the base. You will notice a molten trail chasing the iron, hardening as the wax cools; this trail should be roughly between 2 and 4 inches long if the temperature is set correctly and you are moving the iron at an appropriate speed. Don’t apply downward pressure to the iron, just let it surf along on the wax as it liquefies. It should take between 15 and 20 seconds to iron the length of the ski. Do two or three passes. Remember that you should never touch a hot iron to a bare ski base. Wax acts as an insulating shield, and this is why we recommend that beginners err on the side of too many drips rather than too few. It means more time scraping the excess, but its best to just avoid the risk of scorching and “sealing” your bases until you have more experience.

Have a beer / let bases cool. Let your boards cool at room temperature for about 15 minutes to ensure maximum wax penetration before scraping. Note: If you’re waxing with a cold, hard wax like Swix CH6 and below, do yourself a favor and scrape it while it is still warm from the iron, and then let your freshly scraped bases cool to room temp. If you let CH6 or CH4 fully cool and harden, you’l feel like breaking out a hammer and chisel to get it off. Anything above CH6, let the waxed bases cool to room temp. If you begin to rewax bases that are still warm, they can reach critical temperatures more quickly and become damaged. So take a deserved break. Start in on that sixer, but don’t get too far gone if you’re going to melt more wax.

Reheat the cooled wax into the base again (optional). If time permits, repeat the “Iron wax in / Have a beer / Let bases cool” process another 1 to 2 times (and quaff another 2-4 beers) before finally scraping. You’ve already dripped the wax, heated it and let it cool, and now you’ve got a nice smooth layer of wax just begging for another pass with the iron. You have no excuses! This will ensure that your bases are fully saturated with wax and your labour of love will have the most staying power. To repeat ourselves, it’s important to let the bases cool to room temp between each reheating of the wax.

Scrape the wax off. Make sure you have a sharp plastic scraper with square edges. Purchase a scraper sharpening tool or flatten it on a file when it becomes dull. Hold the scraper properly. Support the middle with your thumbs and wrap your fingers around the edges. Angle the top of the scraper toward the tip of the ski and, using slight downward pressure and a long smooth stroke, pull the scraper down the length of the ski from tip to tail towards you. The goal is to peel of thin layers without gouging the base or altering its structure. Don’t over scrape. Rely on brushing to get the rest of it off. And don’t forget to scrape the central groove on Nordic skis.

Brush remaining wax away. Begin brushing with a nylon brush. This removes the larger particles of wax from the ski and exposes the base structure (those tiny little channels that help break suction). Keep brushing until not much wax comes off the ski. If you have one, it’s nice to finish with a fine-bristled horsehair brush that pulls the smaller dust-sized wax bits out of your base. Finally, if you so desire, polish the base with a cork to give it that nice fast Charlie sheen. You are now ready to glide, after you clean up the mess you made. Hopefully nobody yells at you, but you deserve it if you used your mother’s clothing iron.

Excerpts from “Singletrack Supremo: A Guide to NH & VT MTB Trails”

Hanover, NH Mountain Bike Maps & Directions

CORNISH TOWN FOREST
Cornish, NH

Physical Difficulty: Moderate to Strenuous
Technical Difficulty: Advanced
Distance from Hanover: 40 minutes

The Story:

The Cornish Town Forest is laced with 8 miles of superbly-designed singletrack. Almost all the riding here has a very robust technical flavor that is best appreciated with your pinky out. Solid balance and good bike handling skills will help. The network has been carefully laid out with Vedder-approved Evenflow and each of the trails is blazed consistently with its designated color. If you enjoy slow, technical riding with lots of natural rock obstacles, this is
your rock Garden of Eden.

Distances:

(See map)

How To Get There:

To get to the Paddy Hollow Road entrance , take I-91 South from Hanover about 24 miles to exit 8 (for Ascutney / Windsor). Turn left onto 131, follow it east across Route 5 (it becomes 12/103), cross the Connecticut River into New Hampshire and take a left onto 12A (12A is about 0.5 miles from the River). Follow 12A North for 1.2 miles and turn right onto Windy Hill Road (known on older maps as Punkshire Road, a kick-ass road name). Take Windy Hill 1 mile until it T-intersections with Paddy Hollow Road. Turn left on Paddy Hollow. The parking area indicated on the map is 1 mile up the road. Note that Paddy Hollow turns into a Class IV road in 0.6 miles–we usually opt to park at one of the obvious pull-offs on the left-hand side of the maintained road and bike the rest of the way to the original parking lot. Also, the Class IV roads in the Cornish Town Forest are closed during mud season (April, May and June) to motorized vehicles. The parking lot off of Tandy Brook Road that accesses the opposite end of the Red Trail is best avoided. The beginning of the Red Trail here is a wicked and rocky climb (you’ll be shouldering your bike until the junction with the Blue Trail) and is notorious for causing injuries. We feel that it’s not a great way to start a bike ride.

Trail Description:

All of the trails–save for one–can be ridden in either direction. The few uni-directional rock obstacles you’ll encounter have bypass routes that guarantee passage if you’re coming the opposite way. The only exception to this is the steep and gnarly white trail pitch (the western half)…It is most enjoyable as a downhill ride. Beginning at the Paddy Hollow Road parking lot, you can link together loops of any conceivable length. You may want to start by heading east on the red trail, then working your way back through the blue and yellow loops, descending one of the white trails and finishing with a ride around the orange trail. Mix and match. This place is a keeper.

FRENCH’S LEDGES
Plainfield, NH

Physical Difficulty: Moderate to Strenuous
Technical Difficulty: Low to Intermediate
Distance from Hanover: 30 minutes

The Story:

French’s Ledges is the balding peak (topping out at about 1300 feet) after which this trail network is named. It offers a fantastic panoramic view of Mount Ascutney and the surrounding area. The French’s Ledges Singletrack, completed in 2007 provides a nice, fairly non-technical climb that engages the legs and lungs for the duration. Though it doesn’t have the direct number for the Manager of your Skillz Department, some of the technical features on the Blue- and Red-blazed trails may have him losing his shizzle and screaming into the phone. Dig it.

Distances:

2.9 miles on the French’s Ledges Singletrack
(there and back) + lots of other exploring opportunities

How To Get There:

From Hanover, take Route 120 South 5 miles through downtown Lebanon, then continue another 8 miles to the junction of Route 120 and Main Street in Meriden, NH. Stay on 120, and in 0.5 miles take a right onto Bonner Rd (at the sign for the Plainfield Elementary School). Take a quick left into the school parking lot, unload and gear up.

Trail Description:

The French’s Ledges Trail (marked in Barney I Love You Purple on the map) begins at the back of the elementary school parking lot, heading through the field before entering the woods. Cross the big, brand new (as of ’07) wooden bridge (0.3 mi) and continue along the trail. You’ll encounter several loop trails (Smokehouse, Blood Brook, Townsend), but stay on the French’s Ledges Trail (it is consistently signed as “Ledges” at every junction). Don’t despair–soon it begins to climb and narrow into an actual single track. Though the trail tread is typical New England rocks and roots, almost all obstacles can be navigated with the aforementioned leg & lung power; it is not demanding of technical bike handling skills. Arrive at the junction with the Red Trail (1.4 mi), lean your bike against a tree and climb the remaining short but very steep distance to French’s Ledges. Hiking on bare granite in bike shoes is interesting.

When you return, there are numerous other exploration opportunities (see the map) to take advantage of. The French’s Ledges Trail makes for a great descent, so plan on making that your last run. The Blue Trail has a much more technical feel (though it is short, 0.4 miles) and is a nice detour. The Red Trail is worth a sample as well. Check out the old ski lodge (now just a chimney) and lift towers of the Kimball Union Academy ski hill (defunct) off of the Yellow Trail as well.