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Vogue Daily

L.A. Woman: Victoria, Victoria Beckham…

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Bauhaus Landing: Thom Browne's Spring 2013 Collection

by Freddie Campion

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Photo: Dan Lecca

We’re aboard an alien spaceship orbiting earth, watching a group of glassy-eyed Martians in crisp seersucker suits and bulging silver turbans hatch a plan to enslave humanity.

Well, not really. But it’s a good description of the scene set by the forever-inimitable Thom Browne before his spring 2013 womenswear presentation–meets–Bauhaus ballet at the New York Public Library yesterday. (Even though he says he was trying to evoke avant-garde choreographer Oskar Schlemmer’s Triadisches Ballett from 1922, I can’t help but wonder if Browne’s eerie, atonal music and muted color palette were also an ode to kitschy sixties sci-fi; namely the original Mars Attacks trading card series, and “To Serve Man,” an episode of The Twilight Zone that featured some similarly bulbous-headed aliens with a taste for humans.)

Either way, those sinister-looking Martians (or Bauhaus paragons, whichever it is) were just the prelude to the main event: 25, pale-skinned retro-gothic femme fatales, who trotted in wearing rigidly constructed blazers, skirts, and coats in predominantly gray, black, and white. Dolefully standing atop spinning spiral painted disks in matching Tim Burton–esque black-and-white candy-striped tights, they looked like they were about to be beamed down to earth on a reconnaissance mission ahead of the first wave of Martian invaders. Not least when the show ended, and the also otherworldly Kate Bush’s “Wuthering Heights” began playing in the background—a perfectly earnest sound track to the end of the world, if ever there was one.

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September 11, 2012 10:50p.m.
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The Stiletto
The first so-called “stiletto heels” appeared in Vogue in the early fifties, taking their name from the stiletto blade—the weapon of choice for gangsters in turn-of-the-century New York. By 1957, the trend was in full swing, with small-town beauties and debutantes arraying themselves in dreamlike clouds of tulle and dyed-to-match satin heels that poked tiny craters in ballroom floors.
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