Four Reef Canyons

Posted on by Dennis
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After last week’s success at unexpectedly finding some rock art in the northern San Rafael Reef, I returned on Friday and hiked four canyons hoping to duplicate that success. I’ll save you the suspense of reading to the end–I struck out. I’ve always felt that if one spent enough time in any small area of the San Rafael Swell, and particularly the Reef, that there would be some signs of prehistoric habitation to be found. That’s not to say my search this week was exhaustive–there were some cliff bands that I would have liked checking out but didn’t due to the short amount of daylight available this time of year–but I checked all the usual places you’d expect to find rock art and/or lithics, but came up completely empty. It was still a worthwhile day off work. I got some exercise, saw some bighorn sheep on the drive in, and saw a fox and a very low-flying helicopter while hiking.

I started out in a canyon a mile north of where I hiked the previous weekend. I chose the area because there were four canyons relatively close together that all ran east-west, and judging from the satellite imagery in Google Earth, it would be easy to connect together a route running up and down all four canyons. I saw an interesting natural arch in the first canyon, but that’s about it. There were a few water-filled potholes and a giant cottonwood tree that had fallen across the canyon. To get over to canyon #2, I followed a crack along a long fault line that runs for about six miles north-south across several canyons in the area. I was surprised to see a cairn in the pass between the canyons, and even more surprised that there was moss/lichen growing between the rocks in the cairn, indicating that it was likely quite old.

In the second canyon, I saw a fox that I probably wouldn’t have seen if it weren’t for Torrey pointing it out. There was also a small natural arch just above the Navajo Sandstone layer not far above where I’d seen the arch in canyon #1. I heard what at first sounded like an airplane, but realized too late that it was a very low-flying helicopter in the valley that flew right over my Jeep about 200′ off the deck. I was too slow to get a photo of it, and even now I wonder what it was doing there. I crossed over to canyon #3 just outside of the San Rafael Reef on a cattle trail. In the third canyon I checked out a few places that held promise for rock art, but there was nothing there. I sat on a small boulder where Torrey and I ate lunch, then we moved upward and continued our exploration.

While crossing over to the fourth canyon I was nervous about whether I could make it. Earlier I’d scrambled up to the divide between canyons #2 and #3 to have a peek and the route between #3 and #4 looked dicey. In reality it was pretty easy. I found the route to be well-traveled by some sort of animal–the tracks were indistinct, but they were heavy enough to have been made by cattle. It would be surprising to see them this high up in the Reef, but not entirely impossible. By the time I started down canyon #4 the sun made an appearance and I saw my shadow for the first time during the hike. The fourth canyon held many large potholes that I had to scramble around. I reached the lower end of the canyon, surprised that I made it that far without having to completely exit the canyon and walk down the flat part of the Reef. From there, it was an easy walk down Tidwell Draw back to where the Jeep was parked. It had been a disappointing day as far as my intentions were concerned, but otherwise the canyons made for a good six-mile hike through an area where apparently few tread.


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Posted in Hiking, San Rafael Reef, San Rafael Swell, Trip Reports | Leave a reply

Northern Reef

Posted on by Dennis
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I dodged a bullet this weekend, weather-wise. The forecast called for a 50% chance of rain/snow, a low of 29 degrees, and heavy wind with gusts of 55 MPH, and I was determined to go camping. Chris had to work until 3PM, and by the time he got to Price and loaded his gear into my Jeep it was 6PM. I drove south on US-6 and took the Green River Cutoff Road until I reached the Tidwell Draw Road, then headed south on the rougher-than-I-remember dirt road. We reached our planned campsite at Cottonwood Wash around 8:00. Our first order of business was to open a couple of Epic beers, then we set about gathering up some firewood. By 9:00 we were nice and toasty. spacer It was 56 degrees according to the thermometer in the Jeep, with just a light breeze, and we only saw a few sprinkles all night. Chris and I turned in to bed around 12:30AM and slept relatively late into the morning.

The weather couldn’t have been much better for the second week in November. I slept until after 8:00AM, which is the latest I can recall ever getting up when tent camping. I got up and stoked the fire back to life, and when Chris crawled out of his tent we each made a simple breakfast and some coffee. After breakfast we packed up our gear and almost left without finding the rock art I’d missed the last time I was in Cottonwood Wash–good thing Chris reminded me before we drove off. We hiked up the wash and easily found the rock art, but didn’t find the geocache that I found there a few years ago. I found out after I got home (just last night, actually) that I missed another rock art panel a little farther up the wash. Not that I needed an excuse to return to Cottonwood, but I’ll have to go back to see it another time.

We walked back to the Jeep and drove farther south on the Tidwell Draw Road. We stopped at Smith Cabin to look for a couple of geocaches, then continued south as the road grew even rougher. I’d mapped out several hikes we could have done in the area and uploaded waypoints for each to my GPS, but I decided on hiking an unnamed canyon that holds Ednah Natural Bridge. I’d talked to Bill online earlier in the week and he mentioned possibly hiking in that area, but I’d forgotten all about it until I saw his SUV parked at the mouth of the canyon. I parked the Jeep near his Montero, then Chris and I started our hike. When I created the waypoints for the hike it was apparently clear in Google Earth which drainage we should hike up, but on the ground it wasn’t so. We started up one drainage but it didn’t look right to me (not a well-defined enough water course), so we crossed over into the next drainage to the north and started hiking up it. There were some interesting sandstone slabs angled up with the uplift of the San Rafael Reef, with spring water seeping out of the cracks in the rock and running down the wash. As we progressed and the canyon deepened, I looked more closely at the topo contours on my GPS map and realized we were in the wrong drainage. Oh well, I thought, we can cross back over to the south higher up the canyon instead of backtracking. It turned out to be a fortuitous wrong turn. After we ascended the canyon for a bit and were looking for a route back into the Ednah drainage, I spotted a nice pictograph panel. We scrambled up to the rock art, and as I was taking photos I noticed something odd wedged in a crack next to the pictographs. It looked like a piece of wood, but after a minute of trying to pry it out of the crack, it came free and I realized it was an animal hoof–probably bighorn or pronghorn. It had to have been placed there by human hands, but how long ago I couldn’t say.

We never did find a way down into the Ednah drainage at that point, so we decided to just keep ascending the canyon we were in. It was interesting enough that I didn’t mind exploring it further. We hiked up the canyon for about 45 minutes while I kept an eye out for rock art on the cliffs and arrowheads in the wash (my usual M.O. for hiking just about any canyon). The canyon slotted up for a short distance. Chris managed to upclimb the slot, but I attempted it and found it too difficult, so Torrey and I scrambled around the slot easily on the south side. We could see a storm moving in as we hiked up the canyon. It hit pretty suddenly, with a strong wind and pellet-like snow. We continued hiking for a short while in the snow, but it didn’t take long before I was too cold to feel good about continuing–I hadn’t dressed for snow and wind, and the cold was cutting easily through my clothing.

We turned around and descended the canyon, but checked out a likely cut-over point into the Ednah drainage that I’d spotted a little earlier. The wind subsided and the snow turned into regular flakes as we tried the route into Ednah. The route led us easily into the canyon we should have been in in the first place, and we continued our descent back toward the Jeep. Not counting the rock art in the other canyon, this canyon was much more interesting. There were several deep water-filled potholes that made finding a route around them tricky. I didn’t have my camera out much because snow kept getting on the lens. Near the bottom of the canyon and almost within sight of the Jeep, there was a large spring-fed pool full of tall grasses and reeds, and the water looked heavily mineralized. Just beyond that we saw Bill down by the vehicles, and as we approached we met him and his wife who had just gotten back from a hike up the Reef overlooking the San Rafael River. We talked for a while, then Bill and his wife split while Chris and I decided what to do next. Neither of us wanted to camp out another night if it was going to be snowy, windy, and much colder than the previous night, so we opted to work our way toward I-70 while finding some geocaches along the way.

I had to drive back to the north on the Tidwell Draw Road to Smith Cabin in order to connect with another road that leads into the Buckmaster Draw area. That road was the best I’d seen since leaving the pavement the evening before, but soon we’d find ourselves on the worst roads I’ve driven my Jeep on. We briefly took one side road to find a geocache and stopped to check out an old uranium mine that we saw along the way. I was determined not to use the 4WD, and I managed to do that but once I had to take a second run at a loose, rocky hill. Back at the main road we found two more geocaches, and I found a nice arrowhead only 35 feet from one of them. I drove west from there on an old mining track that soon deteriorated to the point where it was clear no full-sized vehicles had been through in a long time. One part of the road had two small boulders blocking it. There was nowhere to turn around without backing up a few hundred feet, so instead, Chris and I moved the boulders just enough and stacked a few rocks so that I could drive over the top of them. I couldn’t get away without using 4-low from then on.

After another third of a mile we stopped to find another geocache. The coordinates put me out in the open where there was nowhere to hide a cache, and it took Chris and I a while to realize that there was a small mine opening 50′ away that led underground in the direction of the coordinates. The cache was supposed to be 50′ inside the tunnel, but luckily a previous finder had kindly left the container at the opening. Nearby there was the front half of an old truck that must have been used with a cable system to haul ore out of the mine. Our last stop of the day, after the sun had set, was about a mile to the south on top of a bluff overlooking I-70. Another snow storm blew in from the west just as we were finishing up at the geocache, and we were confident that we’d made a good decision in not camping another night.


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GPS Tracklog and Photo Waypoints (Google Earth .KMZ Format)
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Posted in 4WD, Camping, Hiking, San Rafael Reef, San Rafael Swell, Trip Reports | 1 Reply

High Spur

Posted on by Dennis
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In a departure from the normal fare of our semi-annual geocaching events, Chris and I descended High Spur, a technical canyoneering route in the Robber’s Roost area. We woke up early on the morning of Friday, October 19, and started putting our gear together. We could have driven both our vehicles and saved ourselves from a 2.6-mile road walk, but I couldn’t justify driving my Jeep over 120 miles of dirt roads for that, and Chris was willing to just take his Honda Element (which performed admirably on the rough parts of the road). Despite rising early we didn’t reach the trailhead until around 11:00AM. We hid our packs under a juniper tree near the trailhead then drove toward the canyon’s exit and left the vehicle there. It took less than an hour to walk the 2.6 miles back to the trailhead where we shouldered our packs and started off toward High Spur.