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Native Lawns: Multi-species

Installing A Multi-Species Native Lawn for The South That Involves Less Mowing, Less Weeding – And Yes, Less Guilt

The Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center of The University of Texas at Austin is studying a mixture of seven native grass species that works well in Southern climates. Below are instructions for creating a similar lawn based on grass species that are commercially available now. Although Buffalograss and blue grama occur in many states, land owners elsewhere should consider alternative grasses to curly mesquite if they live outside its natural range of Arizona, New Mexico and Texas.

Grass species. From research here at the Wildflower Center that is funded by Walmart, we have found that a mix of Bouteloua dactyloides (buffalograss), Bouteloua gracilis (blue grama) and Hilaria belangeri (curly-mesquite) needs less mowing, watering and weeding and simulates nature's shortgrass prairies. Although different species, these grasses have almost identically shaped leaves and color and produce a great-looking, even-textured, dense lawn. They are available from native seed suppliers such as Native American Seed and and Douglass King Company.  For every 1000 square feet you will need 2lb of buffalograss, 1½ lb of bluegrama and at least 4 oz of curly mesquite.

Soil.
A well-textured, well-drained soil is essential for long term lawn success. Normally, developers spread a couple of inches of imported soil over a layer compacted by heavy construction machinery. But a sustainable lawn needs deep roots, so rip, rotovate or disk your soil to at least 8" - the deeper the better. Then incorporate a ½" of living compost with a low nitrogen and low phosphorus content into the top 3" of your prepared soil. Ask your local plant nursery for recommendations. DO NOT use mulch (e.g. shredded tree bark or wood shavings) grass won't grow in this. The soil surface should be finished to a fine granular texture and free from large stones.  Note: if you are on undisturbed, uncompacted native soils then till lightly and add ¼" compost into the top 1" or alternatively add a compost tea.

Sow.
Sow the seed (the small, hand-cranked seed broadcasters are great), and rake and press (garden roller or feet) it into soil for good soil-seed contact. Early spring is the best sowing time once soil temperatures pick-up. Later in the growing season will work but takes more water. Avoid mid-summer and winter.

Irrigation.
The lawn area should be irrigated every day for the first 10 days to prevent soil drying out.  Thereafter, two soil-wetting (top 4" of soil) events per week for the next month, then two soil-wetting (top 6" of soil minimum) events per month for the next two months of the growing season (March - November). As they appear remove weeds before they go to seed or become too established. Once the lawn is established, say, four months, you may opt to stop irrigating to save water and allow the lawn to go ‘drought dormant'.  The native grasses will go brown and temporarily stop growing, but, adapted to drought, will green-up once rain returns.  

Mowing.
This depends on how you want your lawn to look. We suggest a 3-4" high cut for a great-looking, dense turf, resistant to foot traffic (within reason) and weeds. Mow once every 3-5 weeks when growing and not at all when drought or cold dormant.  Mowing shorter (below 2") will decrease your lawn's health. Conversely, not mowing at all through the growing season will prevent new shoot growth which reduces the turf density.  However, allowing the grass to seed-out once a year (e.g. when you go on vacation) guarantees a good seed bank - insurance against drought, heavy foot traffic and weeds.

Feeding. 
By returning the grass cuttings directly to the soil, annual feeding should not be necessary. A healthy, living soil (because you added live compost), plus the natural ‘rain' of airborne nutrients will be sufficient to keep your lawn at ecological equilibrium just like a natural prairie. But for high-use lawns with children and/or pets, or on freely-draining soils, a fall dressing with a low-nutrient, living-compost or compost tea plus an aeration (with a garden fork or similar tool) will certainly help.

Warning.

• If you do not prepare the soil adequately, your lawn will suffer and you will get weeds
• If you mow too often and too short, you will get weeds
• If you over-water, you will get weeds
• If you over-fertilize, you will get big weeds

Less is more.
Simulating the natural conditions in a native grassland -- low-nutrient soils, native grasses, occasional rainfall, occasional grazing - can help us achieve a sustainable, healthy native lawn. So:

• Prepare the soil (prairie soil takes thousands of years to form, you will need to kick-start yours)
• Use appropriate native species (if they can't take the heat they wouldn't be here)
• Mow less (natives grow much slower than over-fed St. Augustine and bermudagrass)
• Irrigate with occasional deep water events and rainfall, and maybe let it go dormant in summer
• Minimize nutrient inputs (native prairies aren't synthetically fertilized)

For more information and to see how our on-going native lawn research holds up go to our website: www.wildflower.org/nativelawns/

Where to get seed
Douglass W King Company (Note-This company also sells non-native grass seed)
Native American Seed

Bibliography

Requiem for a Lawnmower: Gardening in a Warmer, Drier World, 2nd Edition (2004) Wasowski, Sally and Andy Wasowski

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