Nanode Classic

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Component List Component Legs

Front of Board Soldering Legs

Back of board Cutting Legs

 

We have tired to keep this build-guide suitable for beginners or those of you who just want to know how to build from a kit. I suggest if you want a really comprehensive view of what Nanode is like then you really should look as Ian Chilton who has made some amazing build-guides and has a lot more information about each product should you want more information. So a big thank you Ian for all his hard work. If you get stuck use the Internet Relay Chat and you will hopefully find some help there.

Welcome to your Nanode Classic in kit form. You will find in your pink anti-static bag that you have a whole heap of components, a PCB and a raft with IC’s on. Within a an hour of soldering you will have a fully working Nanode Classic.

If you are new to soldering and want some tips – have a look at this guide. Building a Nanode is just a case of replicating the steps shown in the following picture sequence – no real electronics experience needed – just basic soldering skills.

Tools you will need

  • Soldering iron – always solder in a well-ventilated room
  • Solder – 0.5mm diameter 60/40 is best
  • Solder sucker in case you make a mistake
  • Side Cutters – to cut the excess component leads off
  • Safety goggles
  • Multi-meter
  • Programming cable – you can buy one from us for £6 or if you have an FTDI cable or similar you may use that.
  • Access to a computer

Once you have built your Nanode Classic you will need access to a computer so you can program it with your application.

spacer THE NANODE CLASSIC

The following gives a step-by-step guide of how to build a Nanode Classic.

The pcb is built in an orderly sequence starting with the resistors and small components that are low on the board first and then working up to the bulkier parts like connectors. After soldering each component, you need to cut off the excess leads from the bottom using some cutters.

We advise is that you take your time during the build, be precise, use minimal solder and carefully check each joint after soldering it. If you suspect any short, check it with a multimeter and fix any shorts there and then, before continuing.

All of the images within this build guide can be enlarged, simply click the image to reveal a bigger version.

PLEASE READ THE WHOLE GUIDE before getting started.

spacer Step 1 – Identify Components in the Anti-Static Bag

The bag contains all you need to build your Nanode Classic. Check you have all the components before you begin. If you find anything missing we apologize. We will post missing parts out to you if you email us at nanodeeu@gmail.com. We have included a 32 pin strip in your kit but you probably won’t need to use it.

spacer Step 2 – Front of Classic Board

Please check that the board is the right way up. If you look closely you will see white lettering on the board. This text shows you where the components will go.

spacer Step 3 – Back of Board – MAC chip and Soldered Pins

You should find that the tiny MAC address IC has already been soldered in place on the back of the PCB. You will also see a couple of pins soldered together to bring about a short – this is a modification we had to implement. If your board has neither the soldered points or the MAC chip then you need to email us.
We were worried that the MAC address chip might get lost in the kit bag, and it’s a tricky thing to solder because it’s tiny, so we did it for you.

spacer Step 4 – Component Legs

The first lot of components we are going to solder to the board are the resistors. All components are fitted from the front side of the board, with the legs coming out on the underside of the board like this. The legs will differ in length depending on the component. This picture shows the legs of the resistors. If you bend them slightly to the sides they are less likely to fall out as you turn the board over. We always solder from the underside of the board.

spacer Step 5 – Soldering the Legs

In order to secure all the components in place you need to solder directly onto the board. In soldering you are not trying to melt the component metal, its not like welding. You are creating a connection between the board and the component via a trail of solder. Use as little solder as necessary, as too much solder could very easily bring about a short on the board which will make the board or specific parts of it not work correctly.

spacer Step 6 – Cutting the Legs

Once soldered, cut each legs off with a good pair of side-wire cutters ensuring that you get as close to board as possible.

spacer Step 7 – Cutting the Legs (cont)

Cut the second leg off as close to the board as possible. Some side wire-cutters are better than others, be sure to buy the best tools you can afford.

spacer Step 8 – Soldered Points

You should have a clean dot of solder once you have cut the legs off. If your solder has run or is excessive then you should melt the solder point with the soldering iron and use solder sucker to suck up the solder. You will follow this soldering procedure for all the components. Some will have longer legs than others so you won’t always have to cut excess off. Remember too that you insert from the front side of the board and solder on the back on the board.

spacer Step 9 -Adding the 10K Resistors

We are going to start off with the 10K resistors, there should be seven in your kit. It is vital that you put the right resistors in the correct place on the board. Five of the 10K’s go down the middle of the board and the other two go on the far right. You will see on the pcb white lettering denoting where the resistors sit. You need to identify the 10K’s correctly. Look closely and you will see that there are colour bands on your resistors. Look for the ones that have colour bands in this sequence, brown, black, black, red with an extra brown band at the end as it standard on all resistors. It is also good practice to place all resistors in the same direction reading colours from left to right with the last colour being the brown band. Bend both resistor legs as close to the ‘body’ as possible and put each leg in each hole. You will then need to turn the board over to solder, and once soldered you will need to snip the legs off. – Refer to Step 4, 5, 6, 7.

spacer Step 10 – Adding the 51R Resistors

Next up are the 51R’s resistors, there should be four in your kit and they sit above the 10K’s on the middle of the board. Again, check the pcb white lettering denoting where the resistors sit. The colour bands for these resistors are green, brown, black, gold with an extra brown band at the end, as is standard on all resistors. You will then need to turn the board over, solder and snip the legs off. – Refer to Step 4, 5, 6, 7.

spacer Step 11 – Adding the 270 Resistors

There are four 270 resistors that need to be fitted. Two go on the far right of the board next to the already soldered 10K’s and the other two sit above the newly placed 51R’s. The colour bands for the 270’s are in this sequence red, purple, black, black with an extra brown band at the end. Do as you have done with the 10K’s and the 51R’s. – Refer to Step 4, 5, 6, 7.

spacer Step 12 – Adding the 2K Resistor

Now add the 2K resistor, there should only be one in your kit. It goes at the very top of the line of resistors. Be careful that you DO NOT confuse it with the two remaining resistors the 1R and the 10R. The 2K colour has bands in this sequence red, black, black, brown with an extra brown band at the end. Do has you have done with the other resistors- Refer to Step 4, 5, 6, 7.

spacer Step 13- Adding the 1R Resistor

Now add the 1R resistor, there is only one in this build and it goes in the middle of the line of resistors. If you do confuse any of the resistors you are more likely to confuse the IR with the 10R as it has nearly the same colour banding. The 1R has a silver band and the 10R has a gold band. If in doubt, use a multimeter to check the value before you fit it. The 1R colour bands in this sequence brown, black, black, silver with an extra brown band at the end. As with all the steps you need to solder and snip. Refer to Step 4, 5, 6, 7.

spacer Step 14 – 10R

Add the 10R resistor, which goes at the very bottom of the line of resistors. Do not confuse IR with the 10R as it has the same colour banding except one has a silver band and the other a gold band and it can be hard to tell them apart. If in doubt, use a multimeter to check the value before you fit it. The 10R colour bands are in this sequence brown, black, black, gold with an extra brown band at the end as it standard on all resistors. As with all the steps you need to solder and snip.Refer to Step 4, 5, 6, 7.

spacer Step 15 – Notched Sockets

You are now ready to solder the sockets, but before you do you need to ensure you know which way up they sit on the board. The picture shows that the socket has a “notched-end”. Once you are sure you know which end is notched you can find the “notched-end” layout on the pcb.

spacer Step 16 – Socket Notch on Board

Now you can identify the ‘notch” on the IC sockets you now need to identify the “notch” symbol on the pcb. You will see the photo the semi-circle notch where the ENC28 will go.

spacer Step 17 – Solder Socket on Board

Solder all four sockets onto the board. Be sure to line the “notch end”on the socket with the “notch end” on the board. It’s best to tack diagonally opposite corners to hold the socket in place whilst the rest of the pins are soldered. Make sure they are fitted flat on to the board. These components legs are so short you will not need to snip any excess off. The eight pin socket sits on top of the Hackspace logo on the board but as it does not have a “notch” symbol on the board that is very obvious, you need the “notched end” to face down towards the bottom on the board. (Same direction as the 14 pin beneath it.) Strictly speaking the 8 pin socket and IC is optional, but it is worth fitting at this stage just in case you do want to use it.

spacer Step 18- Crystals 25MhZ and 16MhZ

There are two crystals, be sure you don’t mix them up though as although they look the same they have different values.

spacer Step 18b – Raised crystal off board

Make sure when you solder the crystals that they do not sit directly onto the board, as they may cause a short if you do. Like the resistors if you bend the legs to the side a little once you have positioned the component on the board, it will not fall out as you turn the board over to solder.Refer to Step 4, 5, 6, 7.

spacer Step 19- 25 MhZ Crystal

Note position of the 25MhZ crystal. Once inserted into the holes on the board, turn the board over, and follow steps 4, 5, 6, 7.

spacer Step 20- 16 MhZ Crystal

Note the position of the 16MhZ crystal. Once inserted into the holes on the board, turn the board over, and follow steps 4, 5, 6, 7.