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Choosing a Backpacking Stove
There is a huge market for backpacking, expedition and camping stoves these days, resulting in the availability of many products targeted at different consumers. You can find many stove options suitable of various purposes, fuels, and pocketbooks. These stoves range from classic designs modeled after ones our grandparents used to newer stoves genre incorporating cutting edge space age vaporization technology and special materials to make them lighter, perform better or just look more modern. Each stove design has its own special features (e.g. white gas stoves work at subfreezing temperatures, butane stoves are as easy to use as a home gas range, alcohol stoves burn clean, hexamine stoves and fuel are ultra-light, wood stoves don't require packing in fuel, water activated cookers are relatively safe to use and solar stoves are pollution free). And each stove design has its unique drawbacks (e.g. petrol stoves use caustic fuel, gas stoves must use prefilled canisters, alcohol stoves have a poor heat to fuel weight ratio, hexamine gets very expensive, wood blackens pots, water activated cookers are heavy, solar stoves are generally extremely slow to cook with). This can make stove selection exciting and potentially a difficult endeavor since no one stove has it all, making stove selection an exercise in compromise rather than a hunt for the ultimate stove.
Faced with all of the stove choices out there these days, you may need to do a little research to narrow down which stove, or stoves, will best suit your particular needs. Some of the factors to consider when selecting a backpacking stove include:
fuel types used
fuel availability
weight and fuel efficiency
speed of cooking
cooking needs
starting and long term costs
cold weather performance
ease of use
safety and health concerns
personal preference
environmental/eco concerns
ability to build stove at home or on the trail
bottom line
Some backpackers may even find that they need to plan for different types of cooking systems for separate treks or multiple platforms on extended treks, should the main/preferred fuel type not be available on a leg of their journey. Visit our Stove Systems Page for more on the system concept, as you will need more than just a stove to cook.
Backpacking Stove Types
A good place to start at is covering the basic stove categories. There are a just a few broad categories of fuels generally used in backpacking stoves, each with its own set of unique characteristics for storage and optimal use. The characteristics of the fuels used in stoves impacts the overall design of stoves and as a result, stoves can generally be differentiated into a handful of broad categories based on the fuel they are designed for.
Petroleum Stoves (White Gas, Kerosene)
These are the standard for camp stoves but are generally considered too heavy and bulky for ultra-light hikers. Commercial stoves are generally durable, heavy and work well at high altitudes and low temperatures. The advantage of petrol fuels are they have good heat/weight ratio, are easily found and cheap. The downside of petroleum fuels is that they can be very messy and dangerous. See Petrol Stoves for more information. Homemade versions or modifications are not recommended due to the inherent catastrophic dangers associated with burning petroleum fuels.
Choose this stove if:
you need to melt lots of snow in extreme sub-freezing temperatures
you want easy to find fuel
you like to cook your food hot and fast
Don't choose this stove if:
the sound of a jet engine isn't appealing
you are considering light weight backpacking
you don't like performing maintenance or field repairs on a regular basis
the smell of fuel on your fingers or gear makes you nauseous
the possibility of severe burns or loss of facial hair is undesirable
Petrol Stoves
Mountain Safety Research - Seattle Company
Primus - Swedish Company
Hjemmelaget primus - homemade version of pressure jet stove
Burning Kerosene in Pea Soup Can - homemade version of wick type stove
Liquefied Gas Stoves (Butane, Isobutane, Propane)
These stoves tend to burn clean but use expensive fuel stored in non-refillable metal canisters. They are easy to adjust from a light simmer to a roaring fire. High altitudes aren't an issue with liquefied gas stoves, but they may not work below freezing temperatures. See Canister Stoves for more information. Homemade versions or modifications are not recommended due to the inherent dangers associated with pressurized and explosive canister fuels.
Choose this stove if:
you want a stove that works as well and as easily as the gas range you have at home
you don't think fiddling/tinkering with gear is fun
you want a system that burns clean
Avoid this stove if:
are going on subfreezing treks (See Cold Weather Operation of Canister Stoves and Roger Caffin's Gas Stove FAQs for tricks to make this stove work in the cold)
you need to purchase fuel as you travel across most countries (Europe excluded)
you want cheep fuel
Canister Stoves
Mountain Safety Research - Seattle Company
Snow Peak GigaPower - Japanese Company that currently makes the lightest canister stove and possibly the best cold weather fuel (for canister stoves).
Alcohol Stoves (Alky, Meth, Spirit)
They come in many forms and are commonly homemade. They tend to be slow to cook with and use up more fuel than other stoves. Generally made of aluminum or tin cans, many weigh less than an ounce. These may work poorly in the cold without an insulating platform and/or preheating.
Choose this stove if:
you want ultralight
easily obtainable fuel in North America is important
you like to build your own gear
Avoid this stove if:
you want adjustable or high heat output
you need to cook a lot of food or melt snow
cooking in the snow is important
Zen Alcohol Stoves - Many do it yourself stove types.
Cat Can Stove - Not too difficult to build. Burns hot.
Brasslite - High quality. Durable brass. Heavier than other alchy stoves. Expensive. Built in pot stand. Adjustable heat output.
Trangia stoves - Durable brass. Stores fuel in stove. Inefficient. Heavy for a meth burner. Inexpensive.
Pepsi Can Stove - Good for small pots. Many simmer options. A classic ultralight stove.
Tin Man's Pepsi Can Stove - Doesn't need a pot stand. Can be purchased online.
Photon Stove - Burns hot. Less wasted fuel. Difficult to build. Difficult to light (need primer pan). Very difficult to simmer.
Penny Stove - An elegant setup that's easy to build.
Minibull Design - Well made commercial versions of DIY stoves.
Chemical Solid Fuel Stoves (Hexy, Hexamine, Esbit, Triox, Fuel Tab)
These are simple, light and worth considering. Many alcohol stove setups double as solid fuel burners and some hexamine (Esbit) setups may even burn better in comparison to other stoves when considering water boiled per ounce of fuel. One drawback of hexamine is that it produces a noticeable odor and leaves sticky residue on pots.
Choose this stove if:
getting water hot or to a boil is your idea of cooking
you want the lightest system available
Avoid this stove if:
finding fuel in small towns is important
cooking options beyond slow are desired
you want a cheap fuel
having brown sticky residue on your pot irritates you to no end
Solid Fuel Burners - Simple to build burners. Light. Need pot stand.
2oz Esbit - Ultralightweight cook set for boiling water. Efficient. Fragile.
Howard's 1 oz. Esbit Stove - Simple. Ultralight.
Wood Stoves
These cook systems tend to be on the heavy and bulky side, but may make up for weight in that no fuel needs to be packed or purchased. Just about any wood stove design should be far more efficient than using an open fire. Expect to turn pots black with soot.
Choose this stove if:
you like the smell of a wood fire
wood is the only fuel available
you put the "C" in Cheap
Avoid this stove if:
blackening of your pots is unacceptable
you want more cooking control
wood isn't available or burning it is banned where you are going
smelling like a forest fire is less than appealing
Wood Stoves - Simple to build burners. Heavy and Bulky (compared to alcohol stoves).
Risk's Coffee Stove - A very simple design that works.
Sierra Zip Stoves - High quality but heavy battery operated enviro-friendly wood burner.
Candle Stoves
Simple to make but can be sooty. Wax has a lot of heat potential but is difficult to cook with, especially in windy areas. Like other solid fuels, you don't have to worry about it leaking in your pack. The advantage is that you might get a long burning night light with your stove. Included in this group are stoves fueled by liquid candles, various oils, and lamp fuels.
Choose this stove if:
you need a lantern and not a stove
spilling fuel on your gear or hands drives you nuts
Avoid this stove if:
you need to cook anything
you are the practical type
Candle Stoves - Simple to make and use.
G-Micro PSL - Commercial Wax Gasifier Stove
Nuwick - Commercial candle stove. Comes in tin can.
Solar Stoves
Depending on where you live in the world, you may be able to harness energy from the sun to cook your meal or heat up a brew. These tend to be bulky and very slow at cooking.
Choose this stove if:
you want to be the ultimate eco guy
you want unlimited fuel
Avoid this stove if:
you don't have all day to cook
you live where there isn't any sun
Solar Stoves
CookSack 11.5oz inflatable stove
Backpack Cooker 14oz funnel stove
Solar Cooker Manufacturers
Flameless Stoves (MRE Heater)
These tend to be bulky and/or slow. They are generally safe to use and may be ideal for backpackers that shouldn't be near fire.
Choose this stove if:
you don't want any flames
you have a box of them in the basement
Avoid this stove if:
you can't get a bunch for free
being lightweight is important
you want to cook your food
Flameless Stoves
Mountain House - Mountain Oven
Zestotherm - Military Flameless Ration Heaters
Electric Stoves and Immersion Coils (Heating Coils, Heating Elements, Beverage Heater, Heating Rod, Coffee/Drink Heater)
If you are backpacking across the world and plan to spend some time in hotels, hostels and other places with electricity, and immersion coil is a must. These little gadgets (around 3-4oz) allow you to boil water for tea, soup, and noodles and give you the option of self purifying water (the only kind you might be able to trust) and warm washes for you and your clothes. Hot plates, electric kettles, etc are other options, but quickly add up in weight and bulk.
Most commercial immersion coils are made for 12, 24, 110 or 220 volts and in wattages from 120W to 2000W. The greater the wattage, the faster the coil should heat up water or blow a fuse. Coils made for 220V will work work with 110V, but may take up to four times as long to heat up water. Coils with 12V car adapters are useful for travelers based out of their autos.
Choose this stove if:
you sleep in hotels and hostels when you backpack
your expedition/travels include living out of a car, van or 4x4
Avoid this stove if:
you backpack where there isn't an electrical outlet
Lewis and Clark Travel Solutions - available at REI
Hobotraveler (Packing List page 2 and 3)
Chun Tai Electric Co., Ltd - Taiwan
Calcium Carbide Stoves and Lanterns (Acetylene Stove/Lamp)
A chemical reaction between calcium carbide and water produces acetylene, calcium oxide and heat. The acetylene is then burned for light and/or heat. This very old technology is still a favorite among many cavers and newer head mounted lanterns are still produced today. These setups may not be ideal for backpacking as the hard to find fuel must be kept dry to avoid igniting while in your pack and its byproducts include caustic calcium hydroxide (Ca(OH)2) and calcium oxide (CaO aka Lime), chemicals you don't want in your pack. This stove type is only mentioned for those seeking superfluous trivia, tinkers looking for a unique project and in the interest of being complete (at the expense of practicality).
Choose this stove if:
you like to be very different
you own one of the few portable carbide stoves left in existence and want to show it off
Avoid this stove if:
practicality and/or safety are important to you
CaC2 + H2O → C2H2 + CaO + heat
2C2H2 + 5O2 → 4CO2 + 2H2O + heat
The Carbide Caver from National Speleological Society (with Inner Mountain Outfitters)
The Carbide Lamp FAQ - Australia
Caving Supplies - UK
Petzl - Search for Aceto (lamp), Ariane (acetylene generator) and Explorer (helmet)
J K Dey & Sons
Lehman's
Stove Fuels
Petroleum Fuels
Great heat to weight ratio. Caustic fuel. Generally burns hot and is unhindered by cold temperatures. See Petrol Stove Fuels for more information.
FYI - These fuels can't be safely used in an alcohol stove (it's already been tried).
Liquefied Gas (Butane, Isobutane, Propane)
Liquefied gas boils/vaporizes at above freezing temperatures and makes stove operation simple and generally has the best heat to weight output. Unfortunately, their boiling point ranges limit backpacking stove use in the subfreezing temperatures. These tend to be expensive fuels that come packaged in a disposable metal canister. See Canister Stove Fuels for more fuel information, as well as tricks on stove operation in subfreezing temperatures.
Alcohol
These are very clean burning fuels that don't create a major health concern or hazard if spilled. They have about half the heat potential per ounce of most petrol fuels and the weight of alcohol fuel will quickly add up if you are cooking many large meals or going on long trips without resupply. See Alcohol Fuel Options for more information.
Chemical Solid Fuels (Esbit, Hexamine, Triox)
These are simple and safe fuels to use and have low toxicity compared to petroleum fuels. They burn slow and don't need a special stove to operate. Often, these are only available through mail order or specialty shops, so can be hard to find if you plan to "shop as you go" thruhiking. There are several solid fuels other than hexamine and trioxane that can be used to heat meals, but many carry along extra hazards such as severe toxicity and explosive potential (e.g. plastic explosive). See Solid Fuels for more information.
Wood
Wood varies in burnability, toxicity and availability. It also provides a special ambiance to being in the outdoors. See Wood Stove Fuels for more information.
Paraffin and other Candle Waxes and Oils (not to be confused with Kerosene) Not recommended
Some waxes are worse for your lungs than others and they can vary a small amount in regards to burn time and heat output. This is generally a slow fuel to cook with and can be very sooty. Paraffin and other waxes and oils have a lot of heat potential per gram, but it is difficult to make a practical lightweight stove system with them. See the Candle Stove Fuels for more information.
Sun
The sun has a lot of heat potential, it is a giant nuclear explosion, and some of that heat can be directly used for cooking by concentrating and trapping it. Solar radiation levels differ depending on where you are and when you are there.
Water activated fuels
These do work, but can be hard to find. They are simple and safe to use, if you are using foods packaged for their use. Compared to all other stove fuels, these are heavy to start with, and produce a lot of waste that needs to be carried out.
There are several metals similar to magnesium that release larges amounts of heat when exposed to water. These metals must be protected from moisture for obvious reasons and shouldn't be handled with bare hands.
Calcium Carbide
This can be hard to find and you'll have to fabricate your own stove if you want to cook with it. This fuel must be kept dry to avoid converting it to acetylene gas and/or turning your pack into a fireball. You'll also need to pack out the byproducts of combustion, which can be quite caustic and heavy. Waste products (CaO and Ca(OH)2 ) will total between 87.5 and 115.6% (not including any water weight) of the start weight of your calcium carbide.
Make sure that when you purchase your calcium carbide, it is gray in color and hasn't turned into white dust.
Fuel Comparisons
The following data is intended to provide general figures for various fuels. Many of these figures are debatable, but the range of differences are insignificant for backpacking stove performance purposes. For information on international names fuels check out Mike Buckler's and MSR's list of international fuel names.
|
Fuel |
Mol Structure |
BP C |
VP 25C kPa |
kcal/gram |
Btu/pound |
CHRIS |
MSDS |
|
Petrol Liquids: |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Naphtha |
C5-9 |
130-155 |
20 |
10.1 |
18,200 |
NSV |
Coleman Crown Fuelite MSR SuperFuel |
|
Gasoline |
C3-12 |
14-135 |
48-103 |
10.4 |
18,720 |
GSR |
Unleaded |
|
Kerosene |
C10-18 |
200-260 |
<1 |
10.3 |
18,540 |
KRS |
Klean Strip K1 Crown K1 Klean Heat Jet Fuel |
|
Diesel |
C9-20 |
288-338 |
<1 |
10.2 |
18,400 |
ODS |
Diesel |
|
Lamp Oil |
C10-24 |
254-283 |
<1 |
10.2* |
18,400* |
|
Lamplight Ultra-Pure |
|
Pressurized Gas: |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Propane |
CH3CH2CH3 |
-42.1 |
9391 |
11.0 |
19,782 |
PRP |
Coleman |
|
Butane |
CH3CH2CH2CH3 |
-0.48 |
2421 |
10.8 |
19,512 |
BUT |
PowerMax 20/40 |
|
Isobutane |
CH3C(CH3)2 |
-11.8 |
3481 |
10.8 |
19,458 |
IBT |
Pure |
|
Alcohols: |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Ethanol |
CH3CH2OH |
78.3 |
7.85 1 |
6.4 |
11,570 |
EAL |
Pure SLX Crown Denatured Denatured 70% Rubbing |
|
Methanol |
CH3OH |
64.5 |
16.901 |
4.7 |
8419 |
MAL |