Drawers - Brache or Calze
Updated October 21
2005
"So what
about the nether regions?" I hear you ask.
"Did Venetian ladies wear drawers?"
Well, we do know Italian ladies wore drawers, but we can only
conjecture as to how long they had been wearing them prior to
the late sixteenth century - when the few dated extant items
available to us were used. For that we must look to what few
textual/pictorial sources are available.
The
Late 15th and Early 16th Century
The earliest image which shows
something akin to modern underwear is from 1473.
In that year Johan Zainer (Ulm) printed Giovanni
Boccaccio's De Claris Mulieribus, a
biography of over 100 famous women, which
Boccaccio wrote around 1362. The images in
Zainer's manuscript were included in another
edition - the 1487 Louvain edition by Aegidius
van der Heerstraten. The image (included below) was used to illustrate
the biography of Semiramis, Queen of Assyria. I
have been told that Semiramis was usually
depicted wearing male garments, and as such is an
unreliable source for women's drawers. If this
fact about the depiction of Semiramis is true, I
agree. (See Fig, A, below)
The
sources in which discussion of the earliest instances of drawers
occurs, that I have found so far, are all from tertiary sources:
Ruth
Matilda Anderson's Hispanic Costume, C. Willet and Phillis
Cunnington's The History of Underclothes, Janet
Arnold's Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd and Mary
Laven's Virgins of Venice. However, each of these authors
cite contemporary sources.
According to
Anderson, it seems likely that drawers had their
origins with the Moors. She provides us with a tantalising
description. "The length is
uncertain. Navagero describes Moorish
womens Zaragolles (drawers) at Granada as
of cotton or linen tied on (attacatta). In
Algiers such drawers were reaching the ankle, in
Morocco to below the calf of the leg."
From the Moors
to the Spanish: "Unmentionables in our
period were mentioned but not illustrated for the
noble ladies of Spain. The Duchess of
Alburquerques inventory (1479) includes
linen drawers and their white silk cords,
presumably for tying about the waist. There are
also 9 white ribbons carrying white and gold
aglets that had belonged to drawers. The Empress
had drawers of yellow satin trimmed with strips
of cloth of silver, together with blue and white
silk stockings....The Fact that the
Empresss (Isabel of Portugal) zaraguelles
were accompanied by stockings suggests that her
drawers also reached to the knees, and that
drawers and stockings may have been joined,
perhaps with agleted laces as mens upper -
and netherstocks could be joined." Anderson
also mentions an interesting titbit: Queen
Juana's (1509-1555) drawers, "bluntly termed
breeches, were lined with white fur".
So how did the
Italians get hold of the idea? One theory is that
the fashion travelled to Italy from Spain via
Lucrezia Borgia. Anderson, citing Rosita Levi
Pisetsky's Storia del Costume in Italia,
says "Ladies use of drawers were earlier in
Spain than in England or France, which did not
have the example of the Moors immediately before
them. The custom evidently was not criticized at
the Spanish Court as a usurpation of male
prerogative, which was the case in Italy at this
time. Galley Breeches such garments were called
at Ferrara, where Lucrezia Borgia had made them
fashionable."
Further,
in The History of Underclothes, the
Cunningtons state that, according to Leloir's Histoire du Costume
(1935) "the fashion for wearing 'calecons', or
drawers, was introduced into France from Italy by
Catherine de Medici."
More research
is needed to verify where Leloir got this
information, of course, but these two sources
seem to point to drawers being worn in Italy before the end of the
16th century, beginning in the late fifteenth century with the Moorish
people and the Spanish Court.
The
Mid to Late 16th Century
Perhaps
the first solid evidence for the use of drawers by Venetian women - specifically Venetian courtesans - is
given to us by Cesare Vecellio. In his Degli habiti antichi
et moderni di diverse parti del mondo (Venice: D. Zenaro,
1590) he describes the clothing of the Venetian courtesan
outside her house.
"They
dress in the most lavish manner, their underwear including
embroidered hosiery [1]..." (Translated by L. Lawner, Lives of
the Courtesans). Whilst Vecellio did not include any image of
women of any station wearing drawers, there are others who did
depict this item of clothing used in Italy. These
engravings of the 1590s (shown
below), depict Venetian courtesans
revealing the man-style breeches, or drawers,
under their gowns.
The
first (Fig. B) is a sixteenth century
engraving entitled "Cortigiana
Veneza" - Venetian courtesan - by
Pierto Bertelli from his Diversarum
Nationum Habitus , 1591. This featured a skirt
which was a 'flap' - it could be lifted to reveal the drawers
underneath. This is missing in this image, but I have seen it in
another book. The second image (Fig. D) is by an anonymous
artist. It too features this nifty lift-up panel which allows us
to peak beneath the courtesan's gown, so it is possible that it
is a derivative work. Just for fun I have included a re-drawing
of the Bertelli courtesan (See Fig. C, below) by Max Tilke.
Then
we have
Fynes Morrison, who travelled through Italy in
the early 17th century and wrote his Itinerary
(1605 -17). He is quoted in The History
of Underclothes, as stating that "the
city Virgins, and especially Gentlewomen...in
many places weare silke or linnen breeches under
their gowns." So, by this time, breeches, or drawers, were seen as respectable and fashionable enough
for "gentlewomen" and
"Virgins" to wear them.
And
speaking of virgins, there is one interesting mention of
unmentionables in Mary Laven's Virgins of Venice, sourced
from an official church document of 1626. "Let the nuns be
interrogated...if the nuns have ever seen or heard tell that [Suor]
Fiorenza was found in the parlour with Suor Elena and Suor
Chiara, and that they had their skirts lifted and their hands in
their undergarments...." this not only mentions drawers
(the use of the word "in" and not "under"
would indicate underpants and not shifts), it also alludes to
the respectability, by 1626, of the use of drawers since nuns,
usually chaste and required to be utterly 'respectable' in their
dress, were now using them.
Amongst other
snippets on sartorial splendour, Margaret Rosenthal, author of The Honest
Courtesan mentioned, in a lecture
delivered to the Costume Council of the Los
Angeles County Museum of Art, about how
" courtesans wore male-style clothing as
undergarments - such as linen knickers,
embroidered with phrases such as "I want the
heart." This was a truly tasty morsel of information
indeed, and would haunt me until much later, when I found a
picture of the extant drawers themselves in another book. (See
Extant Drawers page)
[1[
Given
as calze (drawers) in the original Italian text taken
from Vecellio's 1598 edition of his Habiti antichi... in A.
Barzaghi's Donne O Cortigiane, Giorgio Bertani, Verona 1980. Florio
defines "Calze" as "hosen or shoes".
Please
click on thumbnail for a larger image...
Figure A
|
An interesting
image from the 1487 Louvain edition of
Boccaccio's De Claris Mulieribus
by Aegidius van der Heerstraten. The
images in this edition were copied from
the first printing by Johan Zainer in
1473. Here the women can be seen to be
wearing drawers that look remarkably like
modern day underwear. |
Figure B
|
This is a sixteenth century
engraving entitled "Cortigiana
Veneza" - Venetian courtesan - by
Pierto Bertelli. It is from Diversarum
Nationum Habitus , 1591. There is a
copy of it at the Victoria and Albert
Museum, London. The cut-away diagram on
the left shows the courtesan wearing
man-style breeches under her gown. They
appear to be decorated with slashes and
pinkes. |
Figure C
|
Here you can see
the same period engraving re-drawn and
coloured by Max Tilke, in A Pictorial
History of Costume, London, A.
Zwemmer Ltd, 1955, which appears on page
78. The "details from the
plates" section at the front of the
book gives it the classification of
"Italy under the influence of
Spanish Fashion. 1590 - 1610". The
individual images are numbered "3.
Venetian courtesan in a garment made of
heavy silk damask with a lace collar
standing up fan-like and a handkerchief (fazoletto)"
and "4. The same woman (the front
part of the dress being removed) wearing
breeches, stockings with gore and
stilt-shoes (wood with leatherwork or
painting). These stilt-shoes (zoccoli)
were also worn by respectable
women." |
Figure D
|
This is "Venetian
Courtesan" (engraving) circa 1590,
by an anonymous artist. It is located at
the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York.
It is shown as it appears in Lives Of
The Courtesans: Portraits of the
Renaissance, by Lynne Lawner
(Rizzoli, 1987). Again we see a
lift-up skirt which reveals man-style
breeches beneath the gown. These do not
appear to be slashed nor pinked. They
have slits at the side knee for ease of
movement. It is not clear whether she is
wearing any stockings.
|
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