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Difficulty: Difficult
Length: 28.9 miles /
46.5 km
Duration: Multiple days
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Overview:
Campers flock to the forests of the Santa Cruz Mountains south of San Francisco; most are content to pitch a tent plucked from the trunk of their car, but hardy hikers prefer roughing it with all they need strapped on their backs.
Two of the Bay Area's most popular hiking locales -- Castle Rock and Big Basin Redwoods state parks -- promise one of the region's top backpacking experiences. A three-day, 30-plus-mile hike through these parks from the crest of the Santa Cruz Mountains to the Pacific Ocean shows off everything to see in the South Bay woods, from the redwoods towering above to the banana slugs creeping along the forest floor.
A popular version of this hike begins at the eastern terminus of the Skyline-to-the-Sea Trail, at the intersection of Highways 9 and 35 (Saratoga Gap). The first third of Skyline-to-the-Sea tracks along a highway and is otherwise unremarkable, so a superior option is to start from the Castle Rock State Park headquarters a few miles south of the gap on Highway 35. Castle Rock offers wonderful vistas of the mountains stretching to the sea, and a safe place to park your car.
The second and third days of the hike traverse ancient redwoods in Big Basin Redwoods State Park, passing the impressive Berry Creek Falls and ending at the edge of America at Waddell Beach on the Pacific Ocean.
Tips:
Click this link (PDF download) for the most up-to-date information on backpacking the Skyline-to-the-Sea Trail, including current overnight camping fees and the number to call for reservations.
Don't be misled by talk of this hike being "all downhill." While most of it descends, there are substantial uphill sections. With a pack it can be very tiring.
If you're trying backpacking for the first time, rent your gear at a local REI or other outfitter.
Hang your food to keep raccoons and rodents out of it.
All water in streams must be filtered or otherwise purified.
What to bring:
Maps -- available at park headquarters.
Overnight backpacking gear -- shelter, sleeping bag, food, cooking gear
Layers -- it can be very cool in the deep woods and hot in the sun
Bug repellent
Rain gear if you go during the rain season.
Water purification -- filters preferred.
Day 1
Starting from the Castle Rock parking lot, follow the signs to Saratoga Gap Trail, about a half-mile, and turn left just after crossing a small stream.
Saratoga Gap Trail is a rocky 2-mile route along a ridge with impressive views of the nearby terrain. Footing is tricky, so take your time and watch your step. It ends at Trail Camp, where you can rest up for the next leg.
From Trail Camp, go another three-quarters of a mile on Saratoga Gap Trail and turn left at Travertine Springs Trail. Go 2.1 miles to Saratoga Toll Road Trail and turn left.
Saratoga Toll Road Trail parallels the Skyline-to-the-Sea Trail for a mile or so; look for a connector trail (Beekhuis Road Trail), where you turn right and take a short link over to Skyline-to-the-Sea, where you turn left and hike the last few miles to the Waterman Trail Camp.
Day 2
The rest of the route sticks to the Skyline-to-the-Sea Trail, which is well marked so you can pretty much follow the signs.
Day 2 is a 10-mile stretch starting with a section running next to a highway for a few miles, but hang in there: eventually it crosses the highway and dives deeper and deeper into the ancient redwood forest that made Big Basin famous.
As you get closer to the park HQ, the trees get progressively older, bigger and taller. A favorite stop is the site of Maddock Cabin, where early homesteaders carved a living from these woods (the cabin's long gone, but a sign board recounts the Maddock family's woodland lifestyle).
Jay Camp is your Day 2 destination, just beyond the park HQ. There's also a market (open on weekends) where you can buy snacks or soft drinks, and wash up in coin-operated showers.
Park HQ
Stop by the snack shop across the road to grab a cold drink or a bite to eat.
Day 3
It's another 13 miles to the ocean on the Skyline-to-the-Sea Trail from the park HQ, but side trips could add a few more miles to your hike.
One spur I highly recommend: the one-mile Redwood Trail, which showcases Father of the Forest and Mother of the Forest, two of the biggest redwoods at Big Basin.
When you get back on Skyline-to-the-Sea, be sure to follow any detour signs -- falling trees blocked a section of the trail in spring of 2009; when it would be cleared again was anybody's guess.
The most recent detour pointed to a route from Dool Trail to Sunset Trail up to Middle Ridge Road. Cross the road and take the first left turn at the Skyline-to-the-Sea Connector, and go about a quarter-mile to the Skyline trail and turn right.
From there it's about 4.5 miles of hiking under Big Basin's canopy of ancient redwoods -- arguably among the nicest stretches of trail anywhere in the United States. Eventually you'll hear the sound of roaring waters, then you'll round a bend to see the lovely Berry Creek Falls in the distance.
A side trail passes next to Berry Creek Falls and on to Silver Falls and the Golden Cascade. If you're feeling strong, this three-mile side trip is not to be missed.
The last leg of the trail is all downhill, passing out of the redwood forest into the coastal scrub and ending at Waddell Beach.
Waddell Beach parking lot
Another option is to start your hike down here at the Pacific Coast along California Highway 1 and hike uphill the entire way.
Pictures in this guide taken by:
hallidaymw, fusilero, eYeks, liquidthex, wooac, jtg2078, obert82, samshiue, Vaudesir, epedersoli
