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Writing-on-Stone Provincial Park – Hiking Alberta
Posted on October 11, 2011 by hikingwithbarry
Writing-on-Stone Provincial Park is an Áísínai’ National Historic Site located in South-central Alberta, Canada about 20 miles north of the Montana, USA border. On the drive south through perpetual prairie from Calgary, Ewa and I drive east from Fort MacLeod and stop at the Lethbridge Visitor Centre adjacent to the High Level Bridge.
This impressive railroad bridge took 10 months to build and was completed in 1909 by the Canadian Pacific Railway. High Level Bridge, at 96 metres (314 ft) high and 1, 623 metres (1 mile and 47 ft) in length, is the longest and highest trussel bridge in the world using 12, 436 tonnes of steel; 328,000 rivets; and 7,600 gallons of paint. It spans the Oldman River Valley where headwaters of the South Saskatchewan Basin drain water from the eastern Slopes of the Canadian Rocky Mountains into Hudson Bay, 2, 285 KM (1,420 miles) to the east . From this location near the Lethbridge Visitor Centre there are 62 KM (39 miles) of hiking, cycling and equestrian trails which lead to a number of local historical attractions and into the spectacular Oldman River Valley. Continuing south on Hwy 4 through constant prairie under big sky, we arrive at the town of Milk River showcased by the Writing-on-Stone Provincial Park Visitor Centre.
Following a short tour of the Visitor Centre we drive through the small, rural town of Milk River onto a series of secondary, paved roads heading east until, 44 KM (27.5 miles) later, we arrive near the middle of nowhere at the short, gravel entrance road to the Writing-on-Stone Provincial Park and parking at the well-appointed Interpretive Centre.
Writing-on Stone Provincial Park is a collaborative effort between the Alberta Provincial Government and the Blackfoot People. From the campground near the Interpretive Centre, the Hoodoo Interpretive Trail is a 4.4 KM (2.75 mile) return hike to exhibits within the valley. Just a few steps from the Interpretive Centre it becomes immediately apparent why this valley continues to be a spiritual centre for the Blackfoot People. It is a paradise of hoodoos, clay mounds, and coulees. The Native Indians have considered this incredible valley as a spiritual centre for several thousand years. It is a major archaeological site in Southern Alberta.
The drive has been longer than anticipated so Ewa and I must choose our activities for the afternoon. The staff at the Interpretive Centre are very helpful. We will leave the Hoodoo Interpretive Trail for another day. After lunch we drive west on the road above the valley bordering Milk River to a trailhead which leads to the Battle Scene. Some of the ancient carvings, called petroglyphs, in the sandstone cliffs, recognize significant incidents in history. The Battle Scene is believed to represent the ‘Retreat up the Hill’ battle fought along the Milk River in 1866. What remains is a marginally visible, very faint carving in the direct, bright sunlight. Sadly, it is surrounded by a metal cage to discourage further vandalism.
Ewa and I absorb grand views on our the return over the 0.8 KM (0.5 mile return) Battle Scene trail before the short drive back to the Interpretive Centre for our 2 PM tour of the admittance-restricted Archaeological Preserve.
In the off-season, we are fortunate there are only four of us on the tour conducted by our very competent and knowledgeable guide, Bonnie. With Bonnie at the helm, an air-conditioned bus takes us through the locked gate, into the protected area, and onto the valley floor to park at the far end of a long sandstone cliff face.
From the bus parking spot we have a long view of table rock near the Van Cleeve Coulee. It is a unique hoodoo with two supporting pedestals.
A short trail leads us to the cliff face and we walk a trail along the bottom to several exhibits of petroglyphs (carvings) and pictographs (primitive paintings). At each stop, Bonnie interprets the art and the history of the location with vast knowledge and entertaining repartee. The temperature reaches 48° C (118.4 ° F) so protective hats and fluids become very important.
At one stop, the cliff profile displays images in relief. Can you spot the buffalo head and the beaver?
As we proceed along the path, Bonnie provides interpretation for the wide variety of carvings. The faint images have been diminished over time by erosion of the soft sandstone. Pictographs, created with paint made from red ochre, have been compromised by the degradation of some cliff surfaces. Still, they are many excellent examples of ancient art, and new graffiti has been virtually eliminated by creation of the Preserve and stiff fines for offenders.
Near the middle of our tour along the bottom of the cliff face, we are across from a reconstruction of the North West Mounted Police Post on the other side of the Milk River at the north entrance to Police Coulee. This coulee travels south across the U.S. border into Montana and was used for illegal activity until the N.W.M.P. installation, resident from 1887 to 1918, was established. In 1889, a small and comfortable two-room log building was constructed for the princely sum of $291.90. Within the following year a barn, corral, blacksmith shop and two officers’ rooms were added to the post. In May of 1918, the Writing-on Stone Post was no longer needed and all personnel were reallocated to other responsibilities. The original buildings were destroyed by fire shortly afterwards.
We are being watched by mule deer feeding in the lush brush on the other side of the road. They are oblivious to our presence.
In the final interpretive site there are remnants of nests made by cliff swallows and we enjoy the final petroglyphs before the bus returns us to the Writing-on-Stone Interpretive Centre at 4:30 PM.
In hindsight, the driving time between Calgary, Milk River and back makes for a very long day trip and it would have been nice to explore the Writing-on-Stone Provincial Park more thoroughly at a more leisurely pace. It would be an excellent two-day trip with a visit to Head Smashed In Buffalo Jump on the drive south, an overnight in the historic town of Milk River and a hike and tour of Writing-on-Stone Provincial Park the following day prior to the 4-hour return drive to Calgary. Another accommodation alternative would be the campground at Writing-on-Stone Provincial Park.
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This entry was posted in Milk River and tagged Áísínai’ National Historic Site, Alberta, archaeological preserve, battle scene, Canada, Canadian Pacific Railway, clay mound, coulee, Fort Macleod, Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump, high level bridge, hiking, hiking alberta, hiking Canada, hikingwithbarry, hoodoo, hoodoo interpretive trail, Lethbridge, Milk River, north west mounted police, oldman river valley, petroglyph, pictograph, police coulee, royal canadian mounted police, Writing-on-Stone Provincial Park. Bookmark the permalink.
6 Responses to Writing-on-Stone Provincial Park – Hiking Alberta
Such a cool location. I am adding this onto my list of places in Alberta to visit
Thanks.
Charlie recently posted..September Reflection
It is awe inspiring at first glance. Morning and evening light would create endless photographic opportunity. To be fair, it is a remote location. I was not kidding when I said it was near the middle of nowhere. On the plus side, the pak entertains about 70,000 visitors each year with most of those in the summer months. It is growing in popularity but it is a long valley and privacy is achievable. Really enjoyed your September Reflection. The floating yellow leaf is a nice touch.
I’ve done the Head Smashed in Buffalo Jump trip and this country looks reminiscent of the buffalo country but a tad more interesting with all the hoodoos. Good depth of colour in many of the photos too.
I’ve added it to my list of places to explore.
Leigh recently posted..Kayaking to Tent Island in BC’s Gulf Islands
It is a magical place with a variety of discovery opportunities. One of the best educational experiences in a long time. Photographic paradise. Warning: it really is a remote location so less people but longer access. Absolutely a great place for young people.
For those wishing to make it a 2 or 3 day trip Gold Springs Park has ample room for trailers and/or tenting. It is located 8km south and 4km east of Milk River and is only a 45 minute drive to Writing on Stone.
Checked out your website and it looks like a very unique and beautiful campground. Since I personally do not tent or trailer anymore, I will make your message available for those who may be interested. Thank you for making me aware of your facility in reasonably close proximity to Writing-on-Stone Provincial Park. I encourage people who are interested in hiking stunningly beautiful terrain and learning more about the roots of Canadian history to visit.