Artistic director Felipe Oliveira Baptista presented colorblocked dresses inspired by vintage ski apparel
For Fall 2012, Lacoste artistic director Felipe Oliveira Baptista extended his brilliant spring 2012 reinvention of the pique polo, presenting slopes-ready incarnations of colorblocked second skin mini dresses. As “snow” swirled in massive rectangle-shaped cubes that divided the runway, models bounced in a parade of paper thin leather vests, quilted leather jackets, fitted equestrian snowcaps, and luscious tweed-printed silks complete with snow goggle-inspired sunglasses.
The 1966 French National Men's Ski Team wore Lacoste kits
Considering the snow swirling outside Lincoln Center this morning, Baptista’s collection felt right on time, albeit less inspiring than his spring collection, even as it drew inspiration from the Lacoste archives. As with several other shows, colorblocking and texture were key themes. Are you ready for leather-sleeved coats and colorblocked everything next fall?
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[photos by Nana Brew-Hammond]
A blaze-red blazer & colorblocked knit balanced against a graphite skirt in Correll Correll's Fall 2012 collection
New York-based Berliner twins Daphne and Vera Correll are all about balancing opposites and that was evident in their fall 2012 collection. Rich blues and splashes of burnt orange (colorblocked) elegantly draped the pale skinned models standing against stark white walls Friday night at the Correll Correll show. It’s clear the twins took an incredibly hands-on approach with the collection’s designs. Hand-dyed georgette and hand knit metallic, mohair, and merino yarns made art of floor-length silk skirts and dresses, and hand-knit coats.
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[photo by Michael Stewart, courtesy of Getty Images]
Charlotte Ronson presented ski lodge separates & aviator-inspired hoods in her fall 2012 show
Charlotte Ronson’s fall 2012 collection conjured images of apres ski fireplace huddles (mind you, I’ve never been skiing, so I’m going purely off ski cliches and campy ’80s movies with this reference), thrift store digs, and Amelia Earhart. From the Christmas/Cosby ski sweaters to the dark floral print dresses, the collection felt decidedly vintage in reference, yet interesting modern details stood out.
Detached knit and leather aviator-inspired hoods, and backless leather shirts built upon the reference, but they were only blips in the show. I wish Ronson had taken those ideas further.
Meanwhile, her front row was a constellation of stars. Russell Simmons and niece Angela Simmons joined Nicky Hilton, Gina Gershon, Niki Reed, Jessica White, Kim Kardashian BFF Jonathan Cheban, and even a dog that posed on Angela Simmons lap for this pic!
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[photo by Chelsea Lauren, courtesy of Getty Images]
Jen Kao opened her Fall 2012 show with this quilted fur puffer topped with an equestrian cap
Jen Kao’s Fall 2012 collection was a salad bar of references — equestrian, urban luxe, grunge, goth… I loved parts of it, namely the quilted fur puffer above that opened the show (this image doesn’t do it justice), but presented as a collection, a plaid dress cinched with a corset-sized belt followed by a poncho dress, then a maxi leather dress, then a colorful patterned top encrusted with sequins, etc. just didn’t feel cohesive.
Zoe Kravitz took in the show from the front row.
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How can you not bounce like a model in a skirt like this?
Between the fluffy fur trapper hats that topped the looks, the fur-covered pumps, and the full-length fur coat, Yigal Azrouel‘s fall 2012 collection was made for the haute little rich girl who likes her sportswear luxurious and full of the kind of character you usually find at an estate sale. There was nothing soft about the urbane decadence Azrouel presented.
A full-length fur coat in Yigal Azrouel's Fall 2012 Collection
The dresses were cut to match the uber-confident/cocky bounce of youth, the leathers were tough and head-to-toe, and the cardigans were boyfriend. The palette carried out the chic concrete jungle theme with hunter greens, dark berries, black and vintage florals. In sum, I thought the collection was sick (as in amazing). If only I were a rich girl… nananana…
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[photos by Nana Brew-Hammond]
Looks from Doo.Ri
The genius in Doo.Ri’s Fall 2012 collection was in the details from the twist-detail jersey top blocked with soft knit sleeves that opened the show to the full-length laser cut gown that closed the collection. The CFDA Award-winning designer’s knits were twisted, the jersey draped to swinging effect, the pieces blocked with multiple textures. Leather, neoprene, velvet, flannel, shearling, and jersey all played together making art of the coats, dresses, and sweaters; I wonder who Brad Goreski (the stylist was front row) will outfit in the collection’s pieces.
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[photos by Nana Brew-Hammond]